Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,380 total · 29/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


66 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start in the right-facing corner under the roof, traverse under the roof using the finger crack, pull around the corner (crux), and continue up the good crack to a small bulge. Then head up the ramp and up to the top--look for the bolts. This is a nice crack climb.

Protection

A few large stoppers, cams to 1" and a #3 or 4 Friend to double bolts.

Photos

When done as a TR, most people start this route by skipping the intitial traverse under the roof. This start begins just left of the 5 foot boulder under "Fudge Face", on the face directly under the crack system in the picture above. Do a short series of reachy, crimpy face moves to obtain the crack where it goes vertical. This start goes at the mid 5.10 range (in my opinion, anyway) and becomes the new crux of the route. Not advisable on lead, since there are no options for pro until you hit the crack, but definitely makes for a fun bouldery start to an already great route when set up on TR. Jun 3, 2002
Ken McVicker
Aurora, CO
  5.8
Ken McVicker   Aurora, CO
  5.8
My friend aided this route (just to practice aiding). You can reach the undercling from the ground on the left side of the undercling. As a lead route, I think it is fine, but you have to start from the left and do the traverse. Plenty of geat placement for cams (mid to small size). I climbed it on top tope from the left side of the undercling. It was a little scary at first knowing that you'd deck and hit a few boulders if you came off for the first 10 feet of the undercling or so. The rock is pretty solid, and there are two cracks in the undercling to choose from for hand and gear placement. Once at the top you don't have to do the ramp. Continue up the crack to a large ledge about 5 feet from the top of the canyon and you can reach up and clip the 3-bolt anchor on the top. The anchor is two 1/4 in bolts and one new 1/2 inch bolt. Lower or rappel from there or mantle to the top.

Good solid rock.

Possible replacement on of the 1/4" bolts with a 3/8" or 1/2". Aug 14, 2003
Steve Knapp
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.8+
Steve Knapp   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.8+
This was a fun route on toprope. The undercling below the roof is nice, though I slipped once but did not hit the deck (big pendulum swing). A bit tougher where the crack goes vertical, this was the crux for me. It wasn't stylish, but I made it up. Mar 21, 2008
Marc Stuive
Parker, Co
  5.8 R
Marc Stuive   Parker, Co
  5.8 R
Great underhand cling. Great holds in the crack, proper foot placement is handy, if not essetial. Use your shoulders once the crack turns vertical to wedge against the rocks. Jun 21, 2009
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
FOUND A DEAD CELL PHONE AND HAT AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS ROUTE IN A LARGE POCKET. I HAVE THEM, EMAIL ME TO RETRIEVE OR I'LL LEAVE WITH PARK LOST AND FOUND...jonzucco@gmail.com. Sep 19, 2011
Tan B
Lakewood, CO
 
Tan B   Lakewood, CO
 
Fun, little start to this one, just try not to think about swinging into the ground. Feb 4, 2018