Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,743 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dan Mottinger on May 14, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Just right of the five bolt route (Bozo No No) on the Grocery Store Walls, climb this fine route. Start below the thin crack and climb up to it, using mostly face holds the whole route. Finish to the double bolts or straight above the crack.

(The climb is on the wall just left of this picture.)

Protection

Pro seems to be discontinuous and tricky on this route. A runout gains the crack and the crack ends below the top. This route can be easily toproped on the adjacent double bolts without too much of a pendulum.

There is now a 2 bolt anchor with chains on top of this route.

Photos

Good route, but probably best left for TR. Pro in the short crack proper would be tricky and less than solid. Moving left and up the short face to the Bozo No No anchor makes this a fairly sustained route at the grade. Apr 2, 2002
Umph!
  5.10b
Umph!  
  5.10b
I just looked up this route on CB.com to find out what we were climbing yesterday. . . . Rain Dance, eh? Well, it's a good route, but fully disagree with the last caller. . . this is a fine route to lead. Pro is good and if you don't want to RO the top (gear can be placed, albeit not bomber), then, I suppose, it would be easy enough to do a slight traverse left and connect with the Bozo bolt. Nonetheless a good line if you're in the area. Sep 8, 2005
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
This route is easily led with modern gear. Oct 18, 2011
Tan B
Lakewood, CO
 
Tan B   Lakewood, CO
 
There are some good holds that have been marked "X" and should not be touched. Not sure if this bumped the grade at all. Feb 4, 2018