Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,721 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climb exactly behind the tree in the picture, where the route actually lies. It is a nice route but is pretty difficult for the grade--fun route. Stay right up the middle of the face.

Protection

Flexible cams, tri-cams for pockets. This may be toproped, but the setup [was] complicated--there are no solid trees, and only an old 1/4" bolt that's not in line for this route. Especially long slings or an extra rope might help plus some wide crack pro as anchors.

Eds. There is a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Some friends and I TRed this today (7/7). An 8-foot sling around a flake, the mystery eyebolt and a #5 tricam for backup worked well for an anchor. Jul 7, 2001
Darin Lang
  5.9+
Darin Lang  
  5.9+
Good route. We used the aforementioned slung flake, a #3 Camalot, and the bolt to set up the TR. I don't think the route can go "straight up the middle" and stay at the 5.9 grade, though. You will have to skirt a lower blank spot and then rejoin the line at around 1/3 of the way up, just below the climber's location in the photo below.

Definitely on the harder side of 5.9, at least for one move. Mar 21, 2003
kevin jenkins
  5.9-
kevin jenkins  
  5.9-
I would say that this deserves a solid .9, but I think the comment is correct - going straight up the middle is a good way to keep this below .9. On either side of the middle there are some decent variations but none that would push it more than a .10, so have fun and explore! Jun 30, 2004
Jeremy Hakes
Golden, Colorado
Jeremy Hakes   Golden, Colorado
Someone removed the two hangers from the bolts at the top of this route. The bolts are still there, just need new hangers, and evidently epoxy on the nuts so no one else removes them again. May 28, 2008
Thanks for the update Jeremy. I'll try to remember to bring some new hangers and nuts next time I'm in the area.
This is not unusual for Castlewood, with such easy access to the top of the routes.
I've had dozens of hangers stolen over the years and it really sucks.
I don't have the extra finances to re-equip routes any more, so it is getting tougher to maintain fixed anchors. May 28, 2008
Mike Carrington
Centenntial
Mike Carrington   Centenntial
I replaced the hangers today. Jul 19, 2009
Nick Leuck
Evergreen, CO
  5.9+
Nick Leuck   Evergreen, CO
  5.9+
I agree that there is a rather blank area a little under the halfway mark that you'll have to go to one side or the other before rejoining the route on the middle of the face. Two bolts on the corner require some longer slings or a static piece to get the MP over the second ledge at the top (the double lengths we had were slightly too short). One bolt was a spinner (2/14/15) but otherwise looked good. Fun route, though. You can use the same anchor for Gorilla Milk and Gorilla Milk Direct. There is a 5th class scramble just around the corner to the north and an easier one (4th/5th?) further north yet. Feb 16, 2015
Jonathon Davidson
claremont, new hampshire
 
Jonathon Davidson   claremont, new hampshire
 
Did this the other day. Built a anchor using some hexes in the obvious flake/crack.
I found a way to make it harder, because I felt it was too easy. Go up from the right, and avoid using the big holds, switch onto the face quickly using the finger pockets and crimps, grab the lower part of the face with the two deep jugs, then use the two finger crimp pockets the whole way up. Avoid using any of the bigger stuff. Found it to be fun that way. Feb 28, 2018