| Type: | Trad, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 39.35285, -104.76871 |
| FA: | J. Bottrell, 1980s |
| Page Views: | 750 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | MAKB on Oct 12, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to us at 303-688-5242 or dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us.
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
The route was listed in Hanson's old guidebook as 5.9+, but it seems to have been lost in obscurity for quite some time now. I spent an hour scrubbing lichen and sweeping pine needles off and brought this little gem back to life!
The initial boulder problem is the crux, and it's possible that something down low has broken since the FA. A crashpad is the best protection for this section. The crack (and the pro) starts about 15 feet off the ground. A couple pads and a couple pieces makes for a fun, gritstone style route.



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