Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,833 total · 22/month
Shared By: Dan Mottinger on Mar 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


78 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

About ten feet right of Hot Fudge is a large flake on the ground. Start right of this flake and climb up to a flake about 15' up. Climb this flake to the ledge above and get on the big ledge. You can finish with a direct finish on a nice face to bolts above if you're toproping or are willing to run it out. The other finish traverses on the ledge left to an obvious weakness in the cliff. Protect the crack and climb up it (harder) or climb a few moves on the face on the left.

Protection

Standard rack and slings. There is a 2 bolt anchor on top of this route.

Photos

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
The direct finish up the face is fun but felt harder than 5.6 to me (maybe I'm not used to Castlewood rock). I wouldn't want to lead that. Apr 17, 2002
Either way you slice the top, it ain't all that bad (although I'll admit running it out might not be some people's idea of a good time). All in all, I'd say .6 is a fair rating. Fun for the grade. Jun 7, 2002
Dan Mottinger
  5.6
Dan Mottinger  
  5.6
Correction: For an easier finish when leading, follow the large ledge right which is ~8' below the top. Also the 'direct finish' is not too bad for difficulty if one veers more to the left for a few moves. It can protect, but the placements might not be bomber (Tricams in pockets, horizontal placements etc.), so be solid for leading the route. Jul 27, 2003
Ken McVicker
Aurora, CO
Ken McVicker   Aurora, CO
Unless you have tri-cams, I wouldn't lead this either. I didn't have any, so it was a bit sketchy near the top. Walking around to the top and setting up a top rope is best. The last few moves to the canyon rim seemed a little harder than 5.6 for the direct route. Aug 14, 2003
pinchepaco Gomez
castle rock, co
  5.6
pinchepaco Gomez   castle rock, co
  5.6
This is a good route for kids to start on. Sep 21, 2004
closec
 
closec  
 
The large flake mentioned in the description and pictured above has fallen over. If you are trying to find this route for the first time, take the climber's trail from the parking lot to the base of the cliff. The trail ends just to the left of Hot Fudge. Walk under the overhang and look for the flake on the ground which has broken into several large chunks. Step over and you're there. Jul 26, 2005
FYI - this picture is at least 3 yrs old - have been climbing Grocery Store for 2 years, and that slab has never been there (fell down over 2 yrs ago). Jul 6, 2011
Tan B
Lakewood, CO
 
Tan B   Lakewood, CO
 
Pretty wet right now with a constant drip coming down from the anchors and inside the flake. Feb 4, 2018
sandrock
Colorado
 
sandrock   Colorado
 
Not a good lead. Jun 16, 2018