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The Rectory
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Unsorted Routes:

Fine Jade 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chip Chace & Pat Ellingwood, 1984
Page Views: 32,855
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Oct 25, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (214)
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Ham or cheese? 5.7 traverse is fun. If you belay...

Description 

This is a classic desert line to the top of the rectory. Some great varied crack climbing. This is a must do desert climb. To reach, hike up the trail to the base of Castleton and then traverse North on the ridge for a couple hundred yards to reach the base of the rectory. The route climbs the crack system on the Southern prow of the rectory facing Castleton Tower.

P1- Climb a fist crack past a pod and make a difficult thin hands move right. Climb up to a ledge with anchors, pass them and continue thin hands to fingers to a ledge with bolts and belay. (5.10+)

P2- Continue up the crack to a finger crack through a bulge. Past the bulge climb a hand crack past a small roof to a belay stance. (5.11a)

P3- Make some lieback moves, then pass a short rotten section to a roof. Continue up the crack to a big ledge and belay or continue up the 5.11 bolted face to the top. If climbing the original route, traverse directly left from the big ledge below the top for 25-30 feet or so and top out a steep crack in a corner.

Descent- 3 double rope rappels down the route.

Protection 

2-3 sets of cams to #3 Camalot. A set of stoppers.


Photos of Fine Jade Slideshow Add Photo
Scott set up this intermediate belay on the last p...
Scott set up this intermediate belay on the last p...
Pitch 1 OW
Pitch 1 OW
Unknown climbers, March '08
Unknown climbers, March '08
hanging at a belay
hanging at a belay
Taken 6/5/05
BETA PHOTO: Taken 6/5/05
Duke, Liz, and CT approaching Fine Jade.
Duke, Liz, and CT approaching Fine Jade.
starting the last pitch.
starting the last pitch.
P1 Panoramic
P1 Panoramic
Past the OW, P1.
Past the OW, P1.
Zach on the first pitch.
Zach on the first pitch.
Eric on the bolted last pitch of Fine Jade.
Eric on the bolted last pitch of Fine Jade.
Duke leading the 5.11 variation for the last pitch...
Duke leading the 5.11 variation for the last pitch...
Bobby on 3rd pitch of Fine Jade
Bobby on 3rd pitch of Fine Jade
Final Bolted Pitch
Final Bolted Pitch
Rich approaching the crux finger crack bulge.
Rich approaching the crux finger crack bulge.
The last pitch...sweet.
The last pitch...sweet.
November Sunset on Fine Jade
November Sunset on Fine Jade
Belayer atop pitch 1; climber following pitch 1
Belayer atop pitch 1; climber following pitch 1
Just past the steep crux on pitch 1
Just past the steep crux on pitch 1
3 climbers on Fine Jade...can you spot them?
BETA PHOTO: 3 climbers on Fine Jade...can you spot them?
You better hope these guys flying the lawn mower e...
You better hope these guys flying the lawn mower e...
Top of the tower. Very windy day, lost the green r...
Top of the tower. Very windy day, lost the green r...
Rich on the first pitch of Fine Jade.  This sectio...
Rich on the first pitch of Fine Jade. This sectio...
Looking up route from the base
Looking up route from the base

Show All 42 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Fine Jade Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 4, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 1, 2001

It should be stated that on your first time up this route, you should definitely do the original finish. It can easily be dismissed due to the "5.7" grade but it is FAR more adventuresome and, I would argue, higher quality than the bolted finish. Description: belay from the base of the bolt ladder. Hand traverse the ledge with no feet and lots of exposure straight left and belay just around the corner. A #4 Camalot helps protect the traverse for the 2nd. The final pitch heads up the obvious feature around the corner. I won't give the beta for the finish, but it isn't as weird as many of the guidebook route descriptions make it out to be.
By Aaron Shupp
Feb 5, 2002

I also like the old finish.I was able to do the hand traverse and the corner to the top in one pitch. If you don't place much pro on the traverse (there isn't much to speak of anyway), the rope drag isn't bad at all. So, three pitches including the historical finish are possible with a 60m rope.
By Frank Stock
Apr 8, 2002

In the for what its worth catagory:

With 2 - 200 foot ropes, you can get down in two raps. The first rap takes you to the nice belay just below the crux with 5 feet to spare, and the second rap puts you on the ground with perhaps 40 feet to spare. I wish I had paid more attention to the midpoint going up, because I think you probably could get off the top with 1 200 footer, but I wouldn't want to bet my life on it.

Very nice stuff, fun summit. Agree with all of the above, the traverse pitches are a kick.

Cheers, Frank
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 30, 2003

First off, frickin' incredible! Hats off to Chip and Pat for spotting this beauty! An elegant line combined with exposed, varied climbing. Every pitch is a winner. Don't bother hauling up a #4 Camalot to protect the 4th (traverse pitch), as it isn't necessary. The only #4 placement I made on the entire route was about 20' up on the first pitch, but there is good gear directly above and below. My gear recommendation: doubles from blue TCUs to #3 Camalots, with an extra red (#1) and gold (#2) Camalot. Enjoy!
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 31, 2003

Most, if not all, 5.11a desert leaders will want the #4 Camalot for the pod on the first pitch. Most people will find this section to be the crux of the climb.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 16, 2003

Here's another vote for bringing the #4 on P1. Put it this way: you don't need it for safety, but if the climbing is at your limit, it may give you the peace of mind to make the difference between sending and hanging. Plus, it frees up the good hand jams, where you would otherwise have to place pro after the wide stuff.

The bolt is not only old and scary, but is next to a good #2 Camalot placement rather than the wide section.
By Jakester
Nov 24, 2003

The #4 could go either way--if you place it on the first pitch, you can then clip it to an anchor above and grab it on the way down. The climb can be done in three pitches: from the ground to just below the "crux" 5.11 fingers, then to just below the bolts, then the top. Amazing route, tough and pumpy from the get-go.
By Max Schon
May 13, 2004

First of all, the bolted line at the end of Fine Jade is actually the proper finish to Coyote Calling. Second, that section is not .11a, more like .10, the 5.7 finish is WAY more fun. Third, a #4 Cam on the first pitch!? Fine Jade is one of the few towers you don't need such a big piece.
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Mar 23, 2006

Wow, more like 5.10, for the bolted finish? Were we on the same route? I regularly climb 5.12 sport and I couldn't make the moves on the 5.11 final pitch. I took a whipper on the first bolt (coming close to the ledge) and then not wanting to hit the ledge, actually put my fingers through the second bolt- scary, but effective. You must be about 6 foot tall for that pitch to feel easy! In retrospect, I wish we would have done the traverse finish.
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Oct 17, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

What a wonderful route. IMHO the pod low on the 1st pitch was harder than the "crux" second pitch finger crack. I actually thought it was harder to follow the 1st than it was to lead the second. As for the last pitch, I thoroughly enjoyed the classic finish.
By Luke Malatesta
From: Moab Utah
Aug 15, 2007

Just did this route on Aug 12.....Amazing...nobody around, super quality and sustained for the most part.
By James Tucker
Apr 29, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

We just climbed Fine Jade yesterday. I agree with Mike's comment about the first pitch being harder than the technical crux in some ways. The individual moves are probably easier, but it's a little awkward and it's right off the ground. Maybe I just wasn't warmed up yet. I also found the last pitch to be honest 5.11 sport, but in a tricky way, not a pumpy way. I'm tall and found it a little reachy, but my partner found a totally different way to do it so maybe I just didn't look hard enough. I'll try the original finish next time.

Don't forget to bring enough small stuff. I would bring two or three of both blue and yellow TCU-sized cams for the thin crack parts. Also, don't worry about starting up the route with another party above you, as there is an entire second set of rap stations that will allow parties to pass one another easily. I recommend two 60s as the pitches are all longer than 100 feet. All the anchors on the route are fantastic, as is the rock quality. Hands down one of the best desert free routes I've done to date, and one I suspect I will return to do many times.
By Dean Hoffman
Aug 24, 2008

Possible to Rap with one 70M?
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 24, 2008

Dean, I rapped this route with a 60 meter one time. One rap (I can't recall which as it was several years ago) took all the rope, but with a 70 you'll be able to do it comfortably.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Dec 2, 2008

70m works fine, dont take a #4 camolot, take only one #3, four #.4's, three of everything from #.5 - #2, and one blue tcu.

great route every pitch is stellar and definately do the face finish.
By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

We didn't bring a nut tool with us yesterday on fine jade and got a hex stuck on the first pitch and a cam stuck on the second pitch. Sorry kind of lame but it happens. If anyone happens to retrieve those pieces I am willing to pay for shipping. I talked to some of you out there who were going up there today so hopefully you guys got those pieces.

Thanks a lot everyone,

Matt
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 14, 2010

Best aesthetics of any desert route in the area. Being that I suck at crack, the 11a sport finish felt like a breeze compared to the 2nd pitch finger crack. There isn't any feet! At least 4 .5 camalots for that pitch, and possibly that many .4's as well. It felt like that was all I placed on that pitch. The 2nd two roofs on pitch 2 are much easier(and therefore felt more fun) then the first.
By Terence
From: Almont, CO
Oct 18, 2010

Amazing is all I have to say.

We hauled gear and camped on top. Sunrise was gorgeous. A must do for the grade.
By tsuji
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 24, 2010

My partner and I got our ropes stuck coming off in some crazy winds. $100 reward for their return, we will pay shipping to boulder!!!
By Tommey-James
From: Boulder,Colorado
Nov 24, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Hey so I dont know how one could possibly say that any move on pitch one is more diffcult then the so called finger crack on pitch 2. The crack on pitch 2 is .5 size and is ring locks for me, I didnt find a solid finger lock (.4) anywhere on the buldge crux on the second pitch. Overall great route, well worth doing if you are in the area.
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Jan 6, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

@ Tommy:

I could be wrong but I thought .5 was perfect fingers for most people? I like .4's better but if .5's are ring locks for you then you have TINY fingers. I remember placing two .4's and getting solid locks, as well as a few .5 sections.

That was the first finger crack I've ever lead and my first desert lead as well. We don't have many cracks like that here. My partner stopped at the first belay on P1 so I lead the hands/fingers part of P1 AND all of P2. Still easier than the OW move to the right on P1.

Excellent climb.
By Kurt Prond
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 23, 2012

No, I think BD .4s are typically good finger locks, .5s are rattly fingers. Depends on the size of your fingers. I also thought pitch 1 was just as hard(more sustained) than the finger crack. We did this route an a very windy day in 2010. Made rappelling tough. At one point, we coiled our ropes and tossed them, and they blew straight up!
By JayJ
Feb 24, 2012

Great climb! OW, thin, and face cruxes.
By KDog
Oct 23, 2012

Just my opinion, but I would highly advise NOT doing a double rap from the very top (down to the 2nd pitch anchors, if I remember correctly.) I've gotten my ropes stuck doing this rap 2 different times now. If I were to do it again I'd do a single rap down to the 3rd pitch anchors---where you belay for the 'sport pitch' going to the top---and then go from there. Kind of annoying since it's a short rap, but it might save you a lot of time and energy from having to climb back up to untangle your ropes!
By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 20, 2013

Great route!

This is what I wish I had brought
(1)0C3,(2)1C3,(2)2C3,(3).4,(2).5,(3).75,(2)1,(2)2,
(1)70m rope

I did not place a single 3 or 4. Most descriptions lead one to believe that you will be fist jamming and doing OW moves. I did neither. I remember tight hands to perfect hands, reach past the wide, back to tight hands.

Great .4 finger locks through the crux but the feet suck.

I did the bolted finish. I found it thought provoking but very doable, but not easy.
By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Oct 15, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Did this route sick (fighting Montezuma) but thankfully drew a short straw for the first pitch which I found to be 10-. Second was the crux 11a and did the bolted finish which was very balance-y.

I did use the #4 in the pod, but it really wasn't necessary. Used KDog's beta for raps
By Furthermore
Nov 2, 2013

About 15-20 feet up pitch 3 is a loose dinner plate sized rock. It should be removed. There was a party behind us so we didn't want to mess with it. Also, our rope got stuck on that same rock while pulling our ropes on our descent. What a f*#K fest.

For the descent, I would recommend doing a single rope rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 3 and then a double 60M rope rappel to the intermediate anchor on pitch 2 and then another double 60M rope rappel to the ground.

I would highly recommend NOT rappelling west off of the rappel anchors at the top of pitch 2. The intermediate rappel anchor, which is required to get to the ground, is hard to get to since the rappel anchor is in an alcove. We needed to swing on free rappel to get to that ledge. If you do rappel that way, make sure you have nothing short of 2 60M ropes. From that hard to get to intermediate anchor, it is exactly 200 feet to the ground. Again, our ropes got stuck on various ledges and rocks via that west face descent.

Oh, and that first pitch is most definitely not 10-. wtf???
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Nov 5, 2013

Alex Honnold recently sent the route in 8:10, yeah, as in 8 minutes and 10 seconds. It often takes me that long to put on my shoes (I chalk my feet heavily, which takes longer LOL).

Here's the link to the video: goalzero.com/alexhonnold/?utm_...

Um............
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 12, 2013

After climbing this on beautiful day in November 2013 I returned to my pack I had left at the base to find a hole chewed in the top of it and through a sealed ziplock bag inside to some homemade granola bars.

I had never heard of anyone having a problem with varmint chewing into packs in the desert, so I thought I'd leave a little warning for others.
By DennisL
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 23, 2014

Super high-quality route. First 2 pitches are varied and steep on excellent rock. Do NOT do the original 5.7 traverse on the last pitch - once you go left around the corner, rope drag becomes a serious problem. The bolt ladder is fun, quick, and probably 11-.
By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
May 3, 2014

Rap beta with 80 m rope: From top, down to anchor on top of sugar pitch. From there, an 80 gets within 1-2 feet of the anchor on top 1st pitch, so it's best to stop at the anchor on top crux pitch. From there, an 80 just gets you to the intermediate on pitch 1 - knot the ends! Then to the ground.
By B Light
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 4, 2014

Rack
  • (4) #.3-#.4
  • (2) #.5,#.75,#1
  • (3) #2
  • (2) #3
  • (2) #4
  • Single set of master cams (0,1,2) or C3 (0,1,2)
  • Small nuts
  • 10 Runners
  • 70m Rope

First bolt on Coyote Finish is a bit high. The traverse pitch is fun and cool to watch your partner turn the corner with Castleton in the background.

Rap with a single 70.

Favorite desert tower??? Possibly :)