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Crimson Chrysalis 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 1000'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Uriostes, 10/79
Page Views: 53,568
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 19, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (371)
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Just say no to crack, especially if it's wide. Ja...

Description 

This super classic of Red Rock Canyon NCA has a little bit of everything; cracks, face, big pro, small pro and is nine pitches long. The route is at the mouth of Juniper Canyon. The access is the same for Olive Oil, but Crimson is located on the Cloud Tower, which can be identified by a pinkish tower capped by a red top. The Cloud Tower is located on the north facing side of Juniper Canyon. As you approach the mouth of Juniper you'll see a bushy ramp that angles up and right (west) to the base of the route. Follow the climber trail up the ramp to the route's beginning.

P1 - Straight up the crack / right corner to a bolt belay 5.7 (130 ft).

P2 - Pitch 2 continues to climb the same crack / corner until you reach a recess with another 2 bolt belay. 5.8 four bolts (90 ft).

P3 - You can link pitches 2 and 3 with a 60 meter rope. Nice jams on this pitch. Continue up past a steep section to a 2 bolt hanging belay. 5.8+ (65 ft).

P4 - Enjoy the chimney above and continue on into the small cracks to a nice ledge to belay. 5.8 (90 ft).

P5 - Continue up the small-to-hand cracks past a bolt for 90 feet to another small ledge 5.8+ (90 ft).

P6 - Up another 90 feet angling right following 5 bolts. 5.6 (90 ft).

P7- A nice long face pitch clipping 9 bolts that will end in the red rock. 5.6 (110 ft).

P8 - Continue up the RR to a ramp with a bolt. Then traverse directly to your right, remember your follower, and then up the left ramp. Finish the pitch up the varnished face clipping 3 bolts. 5.7 (75 ft).

P9 - Up and right clipping 4 bolts over a small roof to the top. 5.8 (80 ft).

Descent: Rap the route with two ropes.

[Reprinted with permission from Jed Botsford, Climbing Ranger - RRCNCA].

Protection 

Standard rack to 3".


Photos of Crimson Chrysalis Slideshow Add Photo
Climbers on Crimson Chrysalis with Las Vegas Strip...
Climbers on Crimson Chrysalis with Las Vegas Strip...
Big Horn sheep at the base of Crimson, last weeken...
Big Horn sheep at the base of Crimson, last weeken...
Two climbers on Crimson Chrysalis taken from Night...
Two climbers on Crimson Chrysalis taken from Night...
This photo was stiched together using 3 pictures m...
This photo was stiched together using 3 pictures m...
Climbers near the top. March 12, 2008
Climbers near the top. March 12, 2008
View from the top of the Cloud Tower.
View from the top of the Cloud Tower.
Climber in profile on The Chrysalis, taken from th...
Climber in profile on The Chrysalis, taken from th...
A view from the top.
A view from the top.
Crimson Chrysalis - upper pitches
BETA PHOTO: Crimson Chrysalis - upper pitches
Ahhh...sun.  Mike reaching the top of CC. Red Rock...
Ahhh...sun. Mike reaching the top of CC. Red Rock...
The "nice ledge" atop pitch 4 mentioned ...
The "nice ledge" atop pitch 4 mentioned ...
Going for the pot of gold on the 6th pitch. The de...
Going for the pot of gold on the 6th pitch. The de...
View from up there
View from up there
Summit looking down
Summit looking down
Side view of climber on Crimson Chrysalis.
Side view of climber on Crimson Chrysalis.
Just waiting our turn to get on it.  I heard this ...
Just waiting our turn to get on it. I heard this ...
Jared Coburn en route, 10/31/02.
Jared Coburn en route, 10/31/02.
rapping off
rapping off
Tamara wrapping up the stellar final pitch.
Tamara wrapping up the stellar final pitch.
Walter on the first pitch.
Walter on the first pitch.
Climbers on Crimson Chrysalis, from Geronimo.
Climbers on Crimson Chrysalis, from Geronimo.
Ahad Sabet on the beautiful 3rd pitch
Ahad Sabet on the beautiful 3rd pitch
Ahad Sabet starting pitch four...chasing the jet s...
Ahad Sabet starting pitch four...chasing the jet s...
Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
BETA PHOTO: Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)

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Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Crimson Chrysalis Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 23, 2014
By Jonathan Corriveau
Oct 15, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
How is the weather for this route in winter, is this too cold?
By Kevin Sturmer
Feb 21, 2004

this was my first climb in RR and was super fun. it has alittle bit of everything. show up early to get a start on everyone else. my partner and i were there by 8am and had the route to ourselves for about an hour. we past about three parties coming down, so be careful where you throw your ropes.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 21, 2004

As Kevin correctly points out, this route is immensely popular. It is not uncommon to have a party on every pitch. Since the only descent is by rapping the route, the belays can get crowded and rope management as well as good communication with other parties is essential. Allow plenty of time for the descent, count on getting your rope stuck at least once, and bring a headlamp.
By John Peterson
Mar 8, 2004

Note to all you aspiring Vegas Climbers:

You don't HAVE to do Crimson Chrysalis. Really. It's not manditory. It's not really any better than a lot of other Vegas routes. Ginger Cracks is more fun. Black Dagger is a hoot. Everything in Black Velvet is great. But Crimson Crysalis is nearly always plastered with endless gumbies that just have to do this one route.

While the line is classic the climbing isn't particularly notable. I can barely remember any of the pitches anymore - they all blend together. Lots of hanging belays. Serious problems with ropes getting stuck on the way down. People everywhere. You can't pass slow parties.

Before you do CC, stop by the Pine Creek pullout at dusk and count the headlamps. I've seen 3 or 4 parties rapping in the darkness on many occasions. It's not fun. You'll get ticketed if you don't tell the rangers you're staying late. Your ropes will get stuck. You'll stagger through the cactus and get lost on the myriad of trails leading down from CC in the dark.

If you still have to do CC, start early. Really early. Be the first party there. Be prepared to do something else if there's a crowd ahead of you. Start rapping if it's getting late and come back another day.

There. You've been warned.

John

By Max Schon
Mar 16, 2004
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Yes, this route is crowed. Yes, your ropes will get stuck rapping. Yes, you should still do this route. The only downside to this route, is the unnecessary bolts on the first couple pitches. The route would be a lot more stimulating if you had to bring some big gear. We didn't bring anything bigger then a gold Camalot.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 18, 2004

Back in the "good ol' days" we used to drive the loop road backwards to get a jump on everyone for this route. Now, with the severe tire damage in place, the field is leveled and parties jocky for position as the entrance gate opens. The best thing to look for in a partner is good aerobic conditioning for the race up to the base. I had fun on this route, but then again we did win the race that day...

I'd take a #3 Camalot as otherwise the first pitch is runout (see the first photo). But you don't need it higher up.
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 18, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Wow, John P. What a buzz kill. This route is a one star and Cat in the Hat is a must do? Huh. I like your Vegas page, though...

The other option for getting a jump on other parties, since you can't drive the loop road backwards anymore, is to hike in from the end of the loop road. There's a large parking area there and if you're willing to hike an extra mile or so (each way) you can start as early as you want and finish as late as you want.
By Crusty
Mar 20, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A few years ago I climbed this route with a bevy of aging hardmen (guys up to 62, at 34 I was the youngest by 11 years). By registering the day before we were given the combination for the loop road gate to start early. We started hiking by about 6:00am and 7 of us were on top at 1:00pm. The descent for all 7 of us took about 2 hours. No stuck ropes and two parties came up behind us with no problems. Several of these guys had backgrounds in guiding, rescue and rigging. This was one of the greatest climbing experiences I've had. By being thoughtful and keeping your wits about you you can avoid the common problems of stuck ropes and belay cluster#&*@s that can occurr on this route. Climb it!
By John Peterson
Mar 23, 2004

OK - maybe I was a little harsh. The line of CC is absolutely classic. I'm sure a lot of people have had really good experiences there - my first trip up it was excellent. The thing that gets to me is that so many people come to Vegas and ignore tons of good routes just to join the conga line on CC. If I can scare some of those guys onto other quality routes I've done my job.

Tradgirl was up there last week and found something like 6 parties patiently waiting their turn at the base. At least she had sense enough to go climb a different route.

That said, if it's not the busy season or if you're willing to get the early start you'll have a blast.

John
By Anthony Anagnostou
From: nyc
Apr 27, 2004

Gear Alert
the rap anchor on the top needs a little TLC. the top bolt is loose (spinner hanger, you can wiggle the bolt with your fingers)

anthony
By 10b4me
Aug 10, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think this is a cool route simply because it is long and for 5.8 pretty dang steep. But, you gotta admit, it's the same move over and over and over again. Reach up for incut crimp, bring feetup, stand up and repeat. I think I did one hand jam on this route just for the hell of it even though I didn't really need to. I think my experience was also diminished on this route because the crux isn't the climbing nor the length of the route, but it's getting to the base before the hordes.
By 10b4me
Nov 18, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We did this route on 11/10 and didn't see another soul. I can't believe that people will b#$ch about this route. Same move over and over, ropes get stuck, extra bolts (here's an idea, don't clip em)other people on the route, too many trails to choose from and hanging belays to boot. Hush whiners, this climb is great, period. Can't really beat 9 pitches of well protected, exposed, super positive 5.8 climbing. (Except maybe next door on unimpeachable)Get there early and watch your ropes.
By Frank Mackelstonsonthstein
Nov 19, 2004

All experience is subjective 5.10b4me. No crowds would have made the day for me. But that wasn't the case when I did it. It was a clusterfu#@ of humanity up there.
By Flowingthrurock
Mar 10, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Wow! John Peterson you should be ashamed of yourself for such a negative post about a quality route! If anyone checks here to find out information about this route completely ignore this mans comments, they are absurd. Crimson is a beautiful line of quality Sandstone with 99.9% of soild rock that should not be overlooked by any climber. Yeah if you don't wake up early enough there is going to be a line, and yeah if you don't know how to pull ropes there is a chance of gettin your ropes stuck. I've done the route twice and never once had a rope even come close to gettin stuck or run into another soul the whole day. The view from the summit is spectacular, pulling the top moves and being stunned by the Rainbow walls presence is surreal! And shouting with freedom to hear your echo bounce off the Brownstone wall till it turns to sweet silence! In my opinion Crimson is totally worth the effort and if you feel like beating the crowds do it in the winter months, being cold is part of being a climber. Enjoy.
By Legs Magillicutty
From: Littleton
Apr 6, 2005

Best moderate I've ever done!
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 20, 2005

Climbed this route today, May 20. It was 100 degrees in town; the route was windy and moderately hot. We were surprised to be in the sun for most of the climb. Plan on linking pitches 9 + 8 and 3 + 2 on rappel. The bolts on the final pitch could use replacing.
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Aug 7, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Just in case any girls are wondering,(because I sure was) there's a small, semi-comfortable (as when compared to the hanging belays) "picnic" ledge on the summit of C.C. and one nice sized chunk of rock to duck behind if you had to pee really bad; Not like I had to ,but I noticed it was there. The boys can stretch their legs and rest their aching feet up there too, but you will have to be careful, as you will be climbing a little past the last set of anchors . The views are absolutely beautiful from up top. Loved following this climb (Jonny led;Hey...did I ever thank you baby? ) Not sure how soon I'd be ready to do it again. Maybe next year. Whew!!
By rpc
Feb 1, 2006

Best 5.8 I've ever been on. Think it's consistently 5.8 (no plus) on almost every pitch IMHO.
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Mar 28, 2006

When I did this route, we were lucky enough to be the only people on it. Now I realize what a rarity that was! It is an amazing line, but very crowded. We hiked up there yesterday to do Cloud Tower and by the time we got to the top of the 3rd pitch a party that was there before we arrived, finally go their turn on CC. My advice would be to bring the guidebook when you head up there to do it and if it's super crowded, get on one of the other classics nearby. I've heard great things about Spare Rib, Ginger Cracks, and Test Tube.
By Dean Hoffman
Apr 1, 2006

Just climbed this route on a Blitzkrieg trip from Flagstaff, we drove in thursday, climbed friday, drove back friday night. It was well worth the commute. Fantastic Route with great climbing. We brought a double set to #3, a 3.5 and a 4 camalot and 10 slings. If we were to do it again I'd bring only a single set to #3, the 4 maybe and 15 slings and thats it! Stellar stellar route, cold throughout the day though and a little snow at the top of the 8th pitch. Notes on the Rappel, pitch 8 and 9 can be combined and so can 2 and 3. No problems with ropes in the cracks but could see where some of the plates could snag a line. Again sweet route.
By Ian Wolfe
From: Fayetteville, NC
Apr 28, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you want an interesting perspective on the route, climb The Black Dagger or Bird Hunter Buttress, you can see the climbers on Crimson Chrysalis in profile. On that note, be careful what you shout from Crimson Chysalis, as us climbers on the Brownstone and Rainbow Walls can hear you perfectly!
By Nathan Furman
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 12, 2006

There's a lot of poorly buried (or not at all) human feces next to the base of this route. Please be a little more LNT disposing of your waste and taking care of Red Rocks. Consider buying a couple wag bags and just sticking them in your climbing pack, or at least digging a deeper hole.

Nate
By Sandro
From: Calgary, AB
Dec 4, 2006
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This was my 1st long route at Red Rock and I was sorely disappointed by it. I cannot understand why it so popular. I found the bolts to be often unnecessary and placed in such a way as to disrupt the flow of the climb. I often found myself wondering why a belay station had been placed where it was when there was a perfectly good ledge within eyesight. I also felt that the 8+ rating was pretty soft. That said, the upper pitches were spectacular and I'm glad to have climbed it, but there are soo many better routes out there without the zoo.
By snowey
Feb 11, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I didn't think this route was that good either. There were a ton of bolts on it often times when there was a perfectly good crack within reach. Also, we didn't think any of the moves warranted 5.9 or 5.8+ rating. It was kind of a straightforward climb and not very committing seeing as there are rap anchors at every belay.
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I don't consider CC a 'Four-Star Classic,' maybe three-minus and here's why:
1) The approach hike is heinous, especially if you have the 'heavy' pack.
2) Several of the belay stances are awkward or hanging, which makes for sore ankles and a generally unpleasant belay. I too question some of the belay locations... why not place the pitch 4 belay on the huge ledge about 15 feet lower?
3) Rapping through the parties below can be time consuming and frustrating depending on their comfort and organization at the belay stations (I shared the p#7 hanging belay with a group of three that was following our party, and then shared the p#5 belay with another group of two). I am totally impressed with Crusty's account of their time up and down. My story was much different...
4) Even if you are careful, your ropes are bound to get caught on the chickenheads as you pull them. Fortunately, we were able to free them each time (they got stuck on every rap except the first pitch's).

The climbing is fun, but I don't plan on climbing CC again for the reasons stated above. There are SEVERAL other routes of equal or better quality without all these drawbacks.

Here are some other points on the climb:
1) Be the first group... don't leave this to chance, or a foot race. Park at the end of the loop road and hike in...early!
2) Link pitches 2 & 3, and 8 & 9 when climbing with a 60m rope. My partner and I also linked 5 & 6, but this required us to simulclimb about 15 feet of 5.6 terrain.
3) If you have some stretched-out ropes, you could probably combine the rappels for pitches 5 & 6. They are both just over 100' (not 90' as the route description says). As I rapped from P6 anchor I was at the half way mark on my rope when I hit the P5 anchor. Same situation for the P5 rappel. With the ropes hanging straight it would seem you could make it. Anyone else tried this?
4) Bring a windbreaker, as even if the weather is sunny and nice the winds pick-up the higher you climb.

MM
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 12, 2007

Matt, I totally respect your opinion that this route is overrated but I'd point out that the approach and the hanging belays deserve more credit than you give them and add to the overall flavor of the route.

Could you imagine if this route was next to the road? It's crowded now, but it would be a sea of people if access were any easier. And the hanging belays, while uncomfortable, do testify to the greatness of this climb - how many routes out there at this grade and this length are completely void of ledges?

The rap situation is regrettable, I agree. This route would definitely benefit from a separate rappel route.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Hmmm.
4 stars on a weekday if you get through with the hike before it is hot out and and lead each pitch quickly so as not to hang in belays for long.
2 stars on a weekend if you sleep in and start when it is hot out and then have to have to wait in the conga line at the belays.
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

And a....

If you're PMS'ing,and climbing with a significant other ,in cold brutal winds all day,and into the night after a rat had chewed and drained your water bladder before you even started the climb, as you were delayed by other parties ahead of you all bailing off the first pitch, and then you have your ropes stuck on every rappel, after bailing in the dark 6 pitches up, dehydrated, and starving, and finally getting back to your car at midnight with a 150.00 ticket on your windshield on your epic date on CC. Wait a minute, that epic's a 4 star for me! I love epics when it's all said, and done (genetic problem).
By David Stowe
Mar 13, 2007

I did the climb three years ago. We were there during the Red Rock Rondevous(not planned) We climbed it on a Saturday and there was only one other party on the route. I guess all the Rendevous people were busy crowding the sport crags. Anyway I thought that the climbing was fun an relaxed. The belays were a bit uncomfortable, but added to the "biggness" of the route. As far as the approach goes, reasoning that the tough approach takes away from the star value of a climb is pretty silly. With that type of reasoning then Eagle Dance, Levitation, Cloud Tower, anything on Mt. Wilson and many more Red Rock classic routes are lesser routes due to the effort required to reach them. I acutally think that the contrary is true. The harder that you have to work to get to a route, the more you appreciate the whole experience and more goes into earning the ascent. Either way I thought that Crimson was an excellent route and alot of fun.
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Mar 13, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I actually love the hike up to CC, but that's probably because I was a power hiker/scrambler in RR for years, before I was a climber. It's a beautiful hike but can be considered a pain with a heavy pack on, with a foot race to the base. My first time it was an epic, the second time we did CC, it went as smooth as butter; beautiful day, and no problem with rope snags. It's a great classic route!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 14, 2007

Personally, I loved the route. Great fun even when it's cold. From our little jaunt...

fishproducts.com/crimson/index...

~Susan
By David Arthur Sampson
Mar 26, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Wow....!!! Just "shows to go you" that people have different perspectives. Although there were a few too many bolts, and the belays are not necessarily in the best locations (and many of them are not comfortable), I found: 1) the approach, while long, was not unpleasant, 2) that there were a few (perhaps two or three) 5.9 moves, 3) the exposure awesome, 4) no problems with pulling the ropes on the raps, and 5) the climbing fun and unique. Cold weather kept us (fun day with jodie and Marcy; thanks ladies!) from finishing the climb, though. I will definitely return to CC!
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Regarding my whining post about the approach... okay, I admit that a climb's approach shouldn't influence it's rating. I was tired, frustrated by the other groups we had to rap through, and by the hike out in the dark. The climbing itself was great. I could see the belay stations as not being as bad as I described if you didn't have to stay there long (it was my partner's third multi-pitch, and thus slow climbing and transitions). The exposure is awesome, and the summit rewarding. Okay, fine... it's a classic! I just wish my day had been better. =)

MM
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 26, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

In my opinion, Chrimson Chrysalis is fun but not the best route ever. If you go in expecting a fun climb, you will probably enjoy it. If you go in expecting the best classic of all time, you will probably be disappointed.
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jun 29, 2007

Another vote for absolutely classic. You don't get 1000 foot tall 5.8's any steeper than this. And surprisingly mellow for a nine pitch climb. Just make sure you're first in the long line, but isn't that the case with almost every absolute classic 5.8 in the country? Now, for all you player haters out there... you want to get away from lines just hop on the Cloud Tower instead! :)
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Oct 30, 2007

I enjoyed this route, but I don't think it was as great as everyone makes it out to be. The formation and line are sweet, but the climbing is a little too repititive for my taste. Unbelievably, when we showed up on a Saturday only 1 other party was there. We followed them for a couple pitches, then they were cool enough to let us pass. Thanks guys. Some of those belays are poorly placed as mentioned before. I can't imagine hanging out at some of those belays with other parties. Anyone have any idea why they were put there - ease of rope pull, using 50m ropes at the time?
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 14, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

While this is a great climb, you have to wonder: why all the bolts??? Seriously, they are everywhere, right next to excellent placements.

IF you are really solid at the grade then you don't really even need a rack. Maybe a set of nuts or some Tricams at most. We did it in 5 long pitches with a 70m rope and a tiny bit of simul-climbing, placing only 2 pieces of pro. This, like many Red Rocks moderates, is a great climb to just cruise on. If parties are ahead of you, there are some variations to pass without disturbing them.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 14, 2007

Hey Mike,

I agree about the bolts but I guess this is a perfect example of don't clip them if you don't want to. Or.........skip the rack. Read our TR a few comments up..... no gear was placed.

Any way you do it, it's a nice line with fun bomber rock. Enjoy!

Susan
By phil Sabet
Mar 30, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My brother and I had a great experience on this climb...perhaps do to the fact that we had the rare and pristine 1st party experience. I personally liked the third pitch the most, although, toward the end of the first pitch, if you avoid easy moves up the shallow right corner and climb a vertical hand bar feature with a sequence of about three moves (hands and foot smears) directly to the anchors, it's actually quite spicy...making the 1st pitch significantly harder than 5.7 climbing. I recommend this variation if you want to put some zest in the easy breakfast pitch. There are a lot of bolts and bomber features on the route, so I recommend a single rack up to #3 Camelot with maybe some doubles in the smaller pieces. I don't think we placed a single nut...but bring a nut tool...it came in handy as one of our ropes got snagged on the descent. It wasn't a bad descent, but our ropes were new and one of them developed a random kink in the wrong spot, as we've all experienced. Salute.
By OKClimber
From: Folsom
Apr 29, 2008

Quality route, not as "overbolted" as some previous comments may suggest, except in one location on one of the upper pitches. I am a sold 5.10 trad climber and placed at least a couple pieces on most of the pitches. I only mention this because I dont want other climbers to be lured into a false sense that they can leave their racks at home!
As for the popularity of this one goes, I dont know what all the fuss is about. It was a three star, maybe three and a half star, route, but not four. It appears this routes popularity is keeping parties away. Ive been in Juniper Canyon four times in the last 6 weeks and never saw more than 2 parties on this climb. Sunday when I climbed it, there was only one other party on the route...and it was a beautiful day.
By PDF
Oct 8, 2008

To all climbers inspiring to climb CC.

Bring a HEAD LAMP, there is a high probability of having rope issues on the rappel if you are inexperienced with quality rope management. The are lots of cracks and chicken heads to get your rope stuck on not to mention that the route is very exposed to wind.

New climbers, brush up on your rope management skills as well as learn the techniques to retrieve a rope that is stuck safely.

Fun route, but I cant give it a classic rating because of the contrived bolting.

For the 5.8 leader, bring lots of quick draws, and .3-3 inch rack. double #1,#2 BD or equivalent

Stronger parties can make due with a a couple of smallish pieces and a 1,2,3 BD with out excessive run outs.

For the people recommending to leave the rack at home, not very smart, it is one thing to solo, it is another thing to run a route out 40+ feet over a sand stone anchor and take a fall killing both you and your partner, and maybe other parties on the route.
Save your showboating for 8a.nu
By Meghan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Mar 10, 2009

There was a post a while back, but as an update, as of 3/9/09 one of the two bolts for the anchor on the last pitch is still a spinner and the bolt is loose in the wall. Really fun route-- we didn't see anybody else all day (of course, it was so cold that everybody else was probably smart enough to climb something sunny... but nonetheless, it was deserted...)

:-)
By Robert MacKinnon
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fantastic, albeit over-crowded, route. Long, sustained, and steep for the grade!

Has anybody rapped the entire route with a single 70m rope? It looked close on the 7th pitch so we used a second rope to be cautious, but I'm pretty sure that all the other pitches can be rapped with a single 70m (we did most of them this way including the 1st pitch so it must not really be 130ft). The route doesn't wander much nor have a lot of loose rock making double or twin ropes less important. It would be nice to only bring one rope as it would not only be lighter on the ascent but, in my opinion, less likely to get stuck on the descent. Even better would be if a separate rappel line were put in at 30m intervals off to side to avoid rapping through other parties.
By eric whewell
From: Boulder, CO
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route really deserves a seperate rappel route due its popularity.
By don vincent
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 1, 2009

Watch your packs! There's a vile, evil, nasty critter that tore a 4-inch hole in the top of my pack to eat my food. The same critter, or maybe one of his hommies, tore a similar hole in a climber's pack the previous day. Unfortunately, I only found out this vital information too late to save my pack and my tuna snack.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 3, 2009

that little bastard is still there, eh? he chewed a hole in the lid of my brand new Bora 40 years ago my first time up the route just to get at my sammich! 'course, its probably his kids these days, as that was a while back....
By Pete Hickman
From: Tacoma, WA
Jun 3, 2009

I was with the other climber who fell victim to vicious robotic pack chewing marmots on the 29th of May, 2009. My partner's pack was even hung by a nut three feet off of the ground yet they made very short work of it and the pbjs which we had stashed in there. If you value your pack you should hire an armed guard to watch it. Or, maybe if you are lucky the "conga line" will keep them away...
By raygay
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Moderate and relatively inexperienced climbers should take seriously all the difficulties mentioned above. In addition, I don't think any of the pitches should be rated 5.6. I thought both of the 5.6 rated pitches had some hard 5.7 moves, tempered only by the good quality of the protection. The continuously steep character of the route also augments the rating difficulty because your arms, calves, and your mind never get a good rest. That said, if you are physically and mentally prepared and if you happen to hit the route on an uncrowded day, it will be a great climb.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 26, 2009

It is possible to rap the route with a single 70m (Mammut 9.5mm) The only rap that is close is the 7th pitch and you need to down climb 2-3ft on the last rap. You should consider extending your rap device with a 2ft sling on the 7th pitch rap, and knot your rope ends.

Of course if your rope is cut short or you don't weigh enough to stretch a wet noodle, all bets are off. I would think it would be a total nightmare to rap the entire route with 2 ropes, especially on a windy day.
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Nov 23, 2009

Tried this route on a weekday in spring thinking it wouldn't be crowded. Boy were we wrong. I think we were party #5 out of 6 on the wall. We maybe averaged a climbing:waiting ratio of 1:3, that's counting belaying as climbing time of course. The worst came when the party of 2 ahead of us passed the party of 3 ahead of them. Total clusterfuck ensued and me and my partner sat in our harnesses for over an hour before they got moving again. When the first party to the top began their rappel down on the other 5 parties, we bailed ahead of them so they could unsnag our rope if we got an unlucky pull. We got as far as the top of p6.

Fun climbing, obnoxious hanging belays which I'm assuming were put where they are to make pulling the rope easier on the rappels. I know it's kind of an elitist thing to say, but I wish this climb had a fraction of the bolts and a R rating to keep the crowds down. Or maybe if there was a convenient rap route (i know there's the Rainbow Wall drainage descent, but no one uses it) off to the side it would keep things flowing and the belay stations could be at the ledges instead of hanging 20 feet above the ledges.
By daniel c
From: San Francisco, CA
Dec 21, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

1) Rope stuckage - consider the EDK over the double fisherman's. We had no stuckage problems with the raps using the EDK
2) Efficiency - link P2-3 and P8-9 both on the way up (60M) and down (60Mx2)
3) Hanging belays - they are not bad at all. Don't listen to the sissies who complain about them
4) Freezing - this climb is entirely in the shade in the winter. Bring extra layers
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 1, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Like Guy H. states above, you can rap the route with a 70m rope. We used a Beal 10.2mm rope and didn't extend the belay device and made all the raps fine without downclimbing. Definitely tie knots in the ends for P7 and P1 but we had a couple feet of rope left on each one thanks to stretch (I weigh 180 lbs.) This means more raps but less rope to deal and no knot-snagging with which is very nice--especially if it were a crowded day up there.

And yes, this route is pretty chilly in late December/early January (but not crowded!)
By Joe Cayer
From: Mesa, Az
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Can anyone confirm the route beta? Is it correct on mountain project? There seem to be a lot a varied beta on the length of pitches.
By Doug Foust
From: Henderson, Nevada
Apr 11, 2010

Great line straight up for 1000 feet. We were at gate at 6am, still had 2 parties beat us to the base. One was super fast, the other SUPER SLOW! If I ever repeat, walking in early from the road, you really want to be first on this route.

I can see why it gets so much traffic, the first 7 pitches felt like a gym climb.
By Kurt Burt
Sep 18, 2010

Just got off the route today and with only a single 70m. The raps on pitch 7 I think does not reach. I was about 2 feet short had to flip upside down to clip the daisy and down climb. I was using a new 9.2 70m so plenty of stretch still not a good idea unless you are comfortable, but a 70m was nice linked many pitches making the route go faster.
Kurt "Burt" Arend
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Kurt Burt wrote:
Just got off the route today and with only a single 70m. The raps on pitch 7 I think does not reach. I was about 2 feet short had to flip upside down to clip the daisy and down climb. I was using a new 9.2 70m so plenty of stretch still not a good idea unless you are comfortable, but a 70m was nice linked many pitches making the route go faster.

I'm beginning to wonder if my 70m rope is cut a little longer than most. Our 10.2mmx70m rope always had a couple feet to spare on the raps. P7 and the final rap to the ground was close but we still had rope left. Good to know your experience. Tie knots in the ends for sure!
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jan 18, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

just climbed that route yesterday, and was the only party on it all day! thus making a classic a super classic!!!!
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Mar 17, 2011

Did this climb on march 15. we were at the gate waiting for it to open and were still the 3rd party but it was well worth the wait. The climb is run out but it just makes it that much more interesting. The hanging belays weren't enjoyable but they really aren't as bad as some people make them out. Definitely a classic.
By Cpn Dunsel
Mar 20, 2011

Great route and not to be missed. I have always been lucky to be the first party of the day getting on it by walking in from the road at 4:20 am instead of waiting for the gate to be opened and then racing around the loop road competing with the others to get to the parking lot first. Another great trick is to recconoiter it first one day by hiking in and stashing packs and gear near the base and then doing the hike in the next morning mostly unemcumbered and getting a good early start with more energy from not humping the gear.

Don't let the over popularity of the route turn you off to doing it. It is one of the classic, moderate long lines in all of US rock climbing, full of great history, great moves, and great positions. Just time it right and enjoy.
By Joe Cayer
From: Mesa, Az
Mar 31, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Had a great day on this climb! We parked outside the gate and made the hike in from the road at 5:00am. We were the first party on the route and I'm so glad we got there early. 5 parties ( including us ) and one of the parties was 3. We started climbing about 7:00 am and topped out at 1:00 pm.
We started rapping down on one 70M at 1:30, had to rap past all 4 parties below us, made it down and started hiking out at 3:30 pm.

Our 70M was a little short for pitch 7 and pitch 1, not a major issue. With rope stretch, I was able to clip the anchors for pitch 7 and downclimb a couple of moves to the belay. Pitch 1 was short by about 10 feet, but downclimbing was easy. Fast and light with the 70M, I probably wouldn't change a thing. Great day of climbing on a great route!
By Ross Keller
From: Parker, CO
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Garrett,

You should have gone straight up at that point. The old bolts that trend right are kinda off the best line.
By Greg-Az
From: Prescott Az
Jan 10, 2012

I have the Brock/Mcmillen guidebook and the pitch lengths dont match up to the ones listed on mountain project. For example, the forth pitch according to my book is 160 feet while project says it is only 90 feet. Has everone one found mountain project descriptions to be accurate?
By smassey
From: CO
Jan 10, 2012

it is widely acknowledged that the Brock book sucks ass, at least in terms of useful information. I'd trust the MP descriptions, or just buy Jerry Handren's guidebook. Just sayin'...
By Kyle Jackson
From: Las Vegas, nv
May 16, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route. did it on a 100 degree day the route was in the shade from 1130 on and was 15 degrees cooler. Ginger cracks is just as good.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Jan 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Just did this route with Ben Quinones(met him here on MP) on Thursday and boy was it freaking cold. Our hands were numb the entire way up. It was totally worth it though because we were the only climbers on the entire tower and the entire canyon!

Route can be definitely done/rapped with a 70 meter rope and you definitely do not need a double rack and for sure not a #4. Leave those two 60's at home or back in the car and that extra gear! We probably used half a rack, set of nuts and 15 draws so leave all that extra gear at home.

Info on linking pitch 3/4 and 8/9 are correct on what MP says and what other info I've read on summitpost. But with a 70 meter rope you can definitely link 5/6 together which I did and you can probably link 1/2 together with a 70m.

Ben did pitch 1, I did 2, he linked 3/4, then I linked 5/6 and he linked 7/8/9, but we simul climbed while he was leading pitch 9. If you are comfortably at the grade and leading 5.10 or even 5.9 I would definitely recommend doing it the way we did, but also linking 1/2 together with a 70meter. You can get this route done quick.
By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Mar 9, 2013

A number of years ago, Dave Jones and I did this route in one day from Tucson. We started at o'dark-thirty, flew a little plane up to Vegas, headed out to RR in a rental car, ran up the route, rapped off, had dinner and took off after dark. We were back home by about midnight. It was nuts but crazy fun. Somehow we avoided the crowd on the way up though I recall having to work around a lot of parties still climbing while we were rapping.
By Bighead737
May 21, 2013

Climbed CC on May 13th. With the Beta from the previous posts and with a forecasted high of around 100 degrees, we elected to hike in from the loop road starting at 4:00 am. We got to the base just around sunrise and started climbing about 6:00. We had two 70m Petzl Dragonflys half ropes. Linked pitches 2 & 3, 5 & 6, and 8 & 9 for a total of 6 pitches. I'm not the fastest lead but we topped out around 12:30. Probably because of the heat and a Monday, had the route to ourselves.

Rapping down with a EDK knot, we got a rope stuck below us coming down to the #4 "nice" belay ledge. Rope was stuck about 60 feet below. Elected to rap down on single 70 M Dragonfly to unstick. After multiple attempts to get unstuck, ended up cutting about 6 feet off. Luckily partner packed a knife on a whim. I'll never leave home without one from now on. Rapped remainder (#4 through #1) with single 70m rope but with only about 10-15 feet to spare on #4 and #1. Very glad to have had two ropes for it made cutting stuck rope that much easier but not as emotional painful.

I've been wanting to lead the route for about 10 years. My partner and I agreed that the most difficult was the approach. Some of the bolts are a bit runout but all of the holds are there.

Go up!
By Justin.Trayford
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'm starting to think this route is a practical joke. An arduous approach leads to the base. As you climb the natural line, bolts appear. Usually I’m happy to see a bolt and I was at first too, but as I kept climbing I found the bolts pulled you away from the natural line and onto the face (in cut crimp, high step and repeat). The belay stations (again usually happy to see) seemed to be placed in awkward and at times improbable places forcing the hanging belay’s upon you. The climbing I found awkward but generally good. It is very apparent this route sees lots of traffic, around pitch 4 or 5 I looked down and saw several parties either starting the climb or just arriving and waiting in line to climb. It wasn’t fun rappelling though the trailing parties either. I will never climb this route again but I can confirm with a 9.2 Sterling 70M rope a competent party can get up and rap back down. You will be dependent on rope stretch so your experience may vary based on your weight. Also as far as gear goes….I brought a minimal rack (BD X4’s set of nuts, #1 & #2 Linkcam and 15 draws) and it worked BUT I wish I would have brought bigger gear, kept to the natural line and build my own anchors in less awkward positions. I know I could have done all that but I packed lite because of the hike, 5.8 isn’t “pushing my limit”, and I took some advice noted in the comments above.

As far as “classic” status, I couldn’t tell you if it is or isn’t and I don’t feel I am an authority on the subject. I thought Dark Shadows was a much much better climb on better rock, same goes for Frogland ,and I would even add Healy’s Haunted House in because it’s a fun an varied climb (although the rock isn’t as good). All much better 5.8’s (my opinion). Good luck out there.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Oct 14, 2013

Everything everyone says about this route is totally true.
By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Sorry naysayers - this route is awesome. You're climbing juggy 5.7-5.8 straight up for 900 feet with awesome views (and yes...kinda miserable belays. Deal with it.)

Definitely park outside the loop and hike in the Oak Creek approach (good map HERE and beta HERE )

We pulled into the parking lot at 5 A.M. to find two other people just starting the approach as well. We hiked in together and then flipped a coin at the base. We got lucky and were the first ones on the route all day! I don't think you need anything bigger than a #2. The only place you could really use a #3 would be on the first pitch and we didn't place any gear on the first 3 pitches (and we're certainly not badasses). We took a green, gray, and yellow alien, .5-2 Camalot, set of nuts and some smaller hexes and that was perfect. Take a single 70 and you can link 2+3, 5+6, and 8+9 and a single 70 will get you down just fine (although we simul-rapped the 7th pitch to make the rope stretch get us to the anchor). One of the best days of climbing I've had.
By drmartindell
From: Homer, Ak
Nov 11, 2013

Climbed the route a couple of weeks ago in late October, middle of week. We got to Pine Creek parking lot at about 6:15 and we were just beat to the base of the climb. The party in front of us rapped after the second pitch so we had no one ahead the rest of the day. One group below us that we rapped by later on. Pretty nice day. We were extremely careful rapping the route and had no problems. It did take an hour and 45 minutes to rap and from what I've heard that's about average or even a little quicker then average. Got back to car a little before 5pm.

On a side note, I spent the next two weekends climbing in Juniper canyon with good views of Chrimson. NO ONE was on the route on both of those Sundays! Pretty funny, my explanation was that everyone assumed it would be mobbed so no one even went to it. Just a heads up if someone wants to try and sneak a weekend climb on it...you just may have it to yourself!
By mulderinmoab
Nov 26, 2013

Great route, only ran into one other fairly quick party of 2 last week. The last pitch is the best, so I had to give it 5 stars!
By Stone Nude
Nov 26, 2013

^^^^That^^^^ makes me feel good. Glad the route finally follows George's original vision. I went back and climbed this again a while ago and thought the finish is a much more pleasant pitch with all the hardware replaced and the last few feet straightened out. The traverse away from the good steep rock over to licheny 'meh'-ness with two crap ancient bolts and more traversing to get back over to the anchor always soured the last few feet for me. If you liked the route, donate to the ASCA.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Apr 22, 2014

If any route needs a separate rappel route from the climbing route this is the route. It would speed things up considerably and eliminate cluster fuchs at the belays with multiple parties going up and going down. Turn this into a two-lane highway and it will be more enjoyable for everyone.
By Andrew Yasso
Apr 22, 2014

Thanks for the input Brian. This route is in the Wilderness area and as of right now no new bolting is allowed, so a separate bolt line isn't going to happen. In the future things may be different, and it would be interesting to see if the local community would support such a thing.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 23, 2014

This route could totally be made more convenient.

Being able to rap the route itself is hardly considered a convenience in this day and age! A separate, bolted rap line would just be pleasant. And more bolts on the climb would speed things up, so we didn't have to wait for bumbly trad leaders. Not to mention the convenience of not having to carry all that trad gear.

Snark off: this is a tremendous route that is worth suffering a little inconvenience for.
By Daniel Nelson
From: Jackson, WY
May 28, 2014

Got this one in end of April mostly because it was on a friends bucket list. The climbing was spectacular on EVERY pitch.

That said, you need to be willing to suffer through 9 hanging belays and 9 subsequent rappels from hanging stations expecting to have 2-3 people at each station due to always having multiple groups on route. Your rope WILL get stuck on the way down. Also, dress warm even in the spring/summer as you're in the shade/wind almost the whole route. Was fun, but painful due to the above and likely won't do it again. There's equal quality with less crowds elsewhere in the canyon from what I hear.
By Likeasummerthursday
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Sep 21, 2014

Did this route on Friday, September 19th. We worked with much of the beta we found here. Here is my two cents on what we found most helpful (for us), what we did, what we would do if we did it again and general thoughts on the nature of this 'super-classic' climb.

We started hiking from the gate at the loop road exit at 4:50am. We had never done the approach before and arrived at the base at 6:45. It took us about 6 hours up and an hour down, rapping from each station. We didn't race up it, but we were pretty efficient. There was one fast party behind us that topped out about 10 minutes behind us. They also rapped right behind us, which we were happy about, as there are indeed a sea of edges to snag the rope and the wind tened to blow our line way out climber's right. That said, we didn't get our rope stuck. The enire route was in the shade until the summit. We drank 2.5 liters together and we're not even close to thirsty. From p4 to the top it was windy. I was glad to have brought a long-sleeve layer.

All the belays are hanging with bomber bolts. The 'ledge' atop p4 is a hanging belay, too. You don't really need beta for this route. Just follow the bolts straight up. I don't mean to say its a total bolt-ladder, but the bolts definitely guide the way, especially when the crack starts petering out above p5.

We took my partner's 9 mil, 80 meter rope--usually a cluster-mess for rope-management but perfectly appropriate for this route. This route is very straight-up, except for p7 and p8. P7 banks right and p8 tends left. We linked 1/2, 3/4, 5/6 and 7/8. We planned to link 9 with 7/8 or simul the last bit but it was hard to sling gear long enough to not have really bad rope drag heading into the belay atop p8, even back-cleaning. We also thought that the last 15 feet on p8 was some of the hardest albeit on perhaps the most bullet-proof rock on the route.

Linking pitches, we would bring 20 slings, all tripled with no quickdraws. The aesthetics/'necessity' aside, there are indeed plenty of bolts. If anything, they make for quicker climbing. Done again, linking pitches, we would bring a single set from 00 to #2 and a set of nuts. We took a #3 and the ONLY place we were happy to have it was the first piece 20 feet off the deck. Next time we would just run it out. If you take it, I would recommend back cleaning it and leaving it on the ground. The climbing is not hard here, though. Anything bigger would be used in the first 3.5 pitches and is either not big enough or unnecessary.

As far as the quality and nature of the climbing, these are my thoughts:

There are a lot of bolts and the ones on the first half of the route, especially, will draw you away from the crack.

The comment above about the same move over and over--reach high to incut edge, high-step, repeat--seemed pretty right on. There are some good jams...that you don't need to use. The heavily-bolted p7/p8 is mostly friction slabby.

The approach is long, but definitely not heinous. If you can hike for 2 hours with a pack and can sweat out 30 minutes uphill, it's nothing to write home about. This is not Mt. Wilson.

It would be a real bummer to get stuck behind a slower party. Get there early. The approach from the exit on Oak Creek is a good idea.

The climbing is generally very sustained at the grade. Impressively vertical for the grade.

Nothing feels run-out, unless you want it to be.

The rock is high-quality, not really a single pitch with poor rock.

If I could try to sum up why this's route is so classic, this is what I've got:

In a sentence, it's got all the makings of above-average in a lot of ways while being spectacular in few. If I traveled far to do this route, I might feel like I somehow accomplished something big without quite rememebring what it was because for 9-pitch these qualities don't really add up to anything particularly dangerous, painful, committing or scary. I don't mean 'average' like mediocre, but rather I felt that with the beta we had, any given pitch was hard to remember and when back at the car, I felt like things went incredibly smoothly and that almost seemed like the only way.

Here are the qualities that seem to make it 'classic' to me:

The route is both very steep and quite sustained for 1,000 feet of 5.8.
It takes you to a summit with a great view.
The belays are all hanging, which seems to add to a feeling of exposure.
The rock quality is high for the whole route.
There is some amount of most climbing movement and rock feature--cracks of all sizes, chimney, overhang, high-angle slab, stemming, face-climbing.
The approach feels like you're 'working for it'.
You get to rap a vertical 1,000 feet.
The views are great.
There is copious, quality pro from bomber stances.

Here are reasons I feel like these qualities left me wondering why I didn't think it was spectacular, why I couldn't exactly remember one pitch from another and why I wouldn't hurry to do it again unless a friend really wanted to do it...even though I'm glad I climbed it:

For something so tall, it's not particularly committing, as you can rap from any pitch.

For something so tall, the adventure factor is high, but thoughtful route-finding is pretty much nonexistent.

In a sense, it doesn't really matter what gear you brought, because the crack probably eats any of it and there are bolts where it won't.

While the the rock features vary some, in the end it's pretty much all face climbing on a sea of edges.

While the approach is long (and you probably got up early to do it), it's not particularly hard or confusing, and since you're likely to see other folks, it doesn't exactly feel like you engaged in some special adventure that weeds out those you thought were softer than you.

You may get your ropes stuck (and that always feels 'committing'), but you probably won't and if you do, there is probably a party below and/or above you that would not really mind helping you out.

It's never run-out even though it's vertical enough to somehow feel like it is. In other words, the falls are almost invariably clean and the pro/bolts are bomber, so exposure and standing over gear might feeeel scary, but it's not very risky.

In sum, there are a lot of very good things combined in this route, yet none of them alone is over-the-top amazing.

If I were to do it again, here is the number one thing I would do everything I could to make happen: Be The First Party There!
By polishbob
Nov 5, 2014

Took my wife on it the other week. Honestly a fun route, but there is nothing special about it, there are several routes of similar quality at the grade. Probably removing (totally unnecessary) bolts on first 3 pitches would cut down on traffic. Ginger Cracks, Power Failure, Bourbon Street are far less popular and equally good. Ginger Crack is just a short distance, and a better route over all.
We were up early and were the first party on the route, then a party of 3 and a party of 2 showed. Lucky us, they were pretty competent climbers, so raping though their belays was OK. But I can see how your day can turn into a complete nightmare cluster f… if you have to rap through a bunch of newbs, and people who lack rope management skills.
By mark felber
From: Wheat Ridge, CO
Nov 23, 2014

Did this yesterday, and loved it. A 70 meter rope will let you do this in 5 pitches (we did it in 6), and with care and good rope handling skills a single 70 will get you down. Hiking in from the Scenic Loop exit can get you to the climb ahead of the crowds, or most of the crowds. It's hard to think of a route this long, steep and clean at the 5.8 level.