Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: George and Joanne Urioste, 1980
Page Views: 5,318 total · 32/month
Shared By: J W on Oct 14, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a really neat route and a good option if Crimson is crowded and you need to kill an hour or two. It's also worthy of the hike by itself, especially if pair with a trip up Test Tube or Pachyderm.

About 100 yards east of Crimson is a small buttress with a prominent varnished corner on its left-hand side. Just to the right of this corner at the base is a striking finger crack- this is your route.

Pitch 1: Head up the finger crack through a bulge to the belay. 5.8, 85'

Pitch 2: Step left off the belay and follow bolts and pro to the next belay. 5.7, 85'

Pitch 3: Head straight up on somewhat easy ground, following the bolts to a hanging belay. 5.6, 85'

Pitch 4: Head straight up to the summit on 4th class terrain.

Descent: Rap the route with a single rope.

Protection

Bring cam to 2", belays are bolted and some bolts can be found on the upper pitches.

Photos

John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
All bolts on pitches 1 through 3 are brand new - thanks to the ASCA. There is one bolt on the last pitch that is still a Urioste original. Aug 29, 2006
Greg Barnes
  5.8
Greg Barnes  
  5.8
I thought each of the first 3 pitches was solid 5.8, and a bit runout on the second and third. Dec 21, 2006
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.8
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.8
Thanks for the new hardware, Greg!

I'll ditto your ratings, except to say that the first pitch is four stars, the second pitch three stars (maybe easy 5.8-ish?) and the third pitch was a tad tricky and head's up at a stouter version of 5.8 than either the first or second pitch (with softer rock to boot).

I noted the third pitch belay station has an aluminum hanger (Petzl) for one of the anchors. Looks ok, but, maybe some day...

My partners ratings for the first three pitches were: 5.6, 5.7 and 5.8. Oct 15, 2009
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
Really fun route. The lefthand belay bolt on pitch 2 is quite loose. It was not coming out of the hole, but wiggled about 1/2 inch. It can be backed up with a cordalette on the first bolt of p3, about 7' higher. It is a hanging stance, so that'd be a good idea. Oct 21, 2009
Heard this week that the anchor bolt is worse, still needs replacement. Good call on noticing the aluminum hanger and posting up, Brian-that kind of detail helps replacement crews know exactly what to bring. Nov 1, 2011
The climb was three fun pitches with a fourth pitch that isn't worth going to the trouble for. I would call p4 low fifth class: there was sparse protection and no anchor bolts to be found. There was pretty fresh looking webbing there today with a rap biner but if you climb the fourth pitch be prepared to rap off a suspect tree and leave some webbing behind. Mar 26, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8-
Not quite as good and clean as Crimson, but similar climbing in the same area. Oct 26, 2015
TomC
  5.7+
TomC  
  5.7+
only went up to p3, but when rappelling from test tube the fourth pitch looked a bit heady with its one old bolt.
agree with the above that p1 was more like 5.6. May 2, 2016