Type: Trad, 540 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: George and Joanne Urioste, 1980
Page Views: 1,046 total · 6/month
Shared By: J W on Oct 14, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The Pachyderm is an interesting route with interesting character. Upon first looking at it, it is not immediately obvious that a good route is here. The first pitch is obvious, but the broken face above it doesnt immediately reveal itself to be passable. Yet, about 200' above this face is an appealing looking chimney. Our thanks to George and Joanne for braving unknown terrain for this fine route.

The Pachyderm lies near the base of the ramp, on the second buttress on your left. Look for a dark, varnished chimney that leads to a prominent scoop about half a rope length up the wall.

Pitch 1: Climb the chimney to the scoop and belay. 5.8, 120'

Pitch 2: Some choices present themselves. The original route stepped slightly left off belay and headed up, following old bolts to a bolted stance about 100' above. However, there seems to be another option by stepping right off the belay ledge and heading up that way. This way may be at least worth a look- as there are new bolts up near the belay on this side, and there may be one or two more closer to belay. Either way, head up for about 100' until you see a bolted belay (new bolts). 5.9, 100'

Pitch 3: From this belay, traverse right to the chimney and follow it up to a nice ledge. 150', 5.7

Pitch 4: Head up the chimney to the summit, 190', 5.7 (There is an optional belay about 50' below the summit if rope drag is an issue.)

Descent:This descent is tricky and dangerous and extreme care needs to be used! Drop into the gully on the west side of the formation. Although you need two ropes to descend, the first three rappels can and should be made with a single line. Upon arrival at the fourth rap, use the second line to make one long rappel to the floor. (Variation: A fifth rap station is far off to the west below the fourth rap station. Its condition is unknown, but it may be possible to use this to get down with a single line)

Protection

Bring a good selection of gear on this route to 3". A 4" cam is nice to have one or twice, but not absolutely necessary.

Photos

Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
Anyone have info on the face just right of Pachyderm? Starts with a thin seam for protection and big, yet fragile holds to a single bolt with tat. Continues with spaced out bolts on a patina face to a two bolt anchor on a nice ledge, then straight up on more fragile holds to low fifth class/fourth class terrain to the top. We thought we were climbing Spare Rib, but turned out to be something entirely different. Thanks in advance. Mar 20, 2018
Gary Clark
Bend, OR
 
Gary Clark   Bend, OR
 
We did this in 2005, and found the rappel (as described above) unacceptably dangerous. An OK route, but rap anchors are desperately needed. We tied off a bush at one point that would be at home in a flower pot. Mar 7, 2019