Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Cloud Tower
|Clod Tower, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cloud Tower T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Crimson Chrysalis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Disciple, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Hook, Line, and Whimper T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|It's a Girl - It's a Boy ! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Laceration Spur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Pachyderm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Spare Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Test Tube T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Thagomizer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tiger Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Type:||Trad, 540 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||George and Joanne Urioste, 1980|
|Page Views:||886 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||John Wilder on Oct 14, 2005|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThe Pachyderm is an interesting route with interesting character. Upon first looking at it, it is not immediately obvious that a good route is here. The first pitch is obvious, but the broken face above it doesnt immediately reveal itself to be passable. Yet, about 200' above this face is an appealing looking chimney. Our thanks to George and Joanne for braving unknown terrain for this fine route.
The Pachyderm lies near the base of the ramp, on the second buttress on your left. Look for a dark, varnished chimney that leads to a prominent scoop about half a rope length up the wall.
Pitch 1: Climb the chimney to the scoop and belay. 5.8, 120'
Pitch 2: Some choices present themselves. The original route stepped slightly left off belay and headed up, following old bolts to a bolted stance about 100' above. However, there seems to be another option by stepping right off the belay ledge and heading up that way. This way may be at least worth a look- as there are new bolts up near the belay on this side, and there may be one or two more closer to belay. Either way, head up for about 100' until you see a bolted belay (new bolts). 5.9, 100'
Pitch 3: From this belay, traverse right to the chimney and follow it up to a nice ledge. 150', 5.7
Pitch 4: Head up the chimney to the summit, 190', 5.7 (There is an optional belay about 50' below the summit if rope drag is an issue.)
Descent:This descent is tricky and dangerous and extreme care needs to be used! Drop into the gully on the west side of the formation. Although you need two ropes to descend, the first three rappels can and should be made with a single line. Upon arrival at the fourth rap, use the second line to make one long rappel to the floor. (Variation: A fifth rap station is far off to the west below the fourth rap station. Its condition is unknown, but it may be possible to use this to get down with a single line)