Type: | Trad, 1400 ft (424 m), 14 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Jeff Raymond, Larry DeAngelo |
Page Views: | 2,665 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is the kind of route that doesn't fit easily into the "star system." It is a proud and challenging line, but the challenges often go beyond clean technical difficulties. If you're looking for a serious mountain outing, this could be a real contender!
Start out climbing the first continuous crack system to the left of Test Tube to a large, brushy ledge area on the right. (Or alternatively, climb Test Tube or Spare Rib to the same area.) Climb the gully above, fourth class at first. Higher, the gully is split by a protruding buttress; face-climb the buttress, with limited protection, to another large brushy ledge. At the right (western) end of the ledge there is a clean corner behind a pine tree. Go up the corner to a belay by a bush. Jog right for a few feet, then climb back left into a left-leaning cleft. Follow the path of least resistance (with some hard climbing) until reaching the flat top of a flake/pinnacle feature in the red rock. Cross left to the opposite end of the ledge and make a face move to reach a clean offwidth crack (probably best to belay at the base of this crack). Climb the crack and continue generally straight up for a few hundred feet until reaching an apparent impasse in a small cave. Exit to the left on very soft rock. The difficulties soon ease and the summit ridge is reached.
The FA party continued up to the eastern summit of Rainbow Mountain, then worked west to the normal Oak Creek descent route. This took us almost six hours, and we generally knew the way.
Further info on this route can be found at this site.
Start out climbing the first continuous crack system to the left of Test Tube to a large, brushy ledge area on the right. (Or alternatively, climb Test Tube or Spare Rib to the same area.) Climb the gully above, fourth class at first. Higher, the gully is split by a protruding buttress; face-climb the buttress, with limited protection, to another large brushy ledge. At the right (western) end of the ledge there is a clean corner behind a pine tree. Go up the corner to a belay by a bush. Jog right for a few feet, then climb back left into a left-leaning cleft. Follow the path of least resistance (with some hard climbing) until reaching the flat top of a flake/pinnacle feature in the red rock. Cross left to the opposite end of the ledge and make a face move to reach a clean offwidth crack (probably best to belay at the base of this crack). Climb the crack and continue generally straight up for a few hundred feet until reaching an apparent impasse in a small cave. Exit to the left on very soft rock. The difficulties soon ease and the summit ridge is reached.
The FA party continued up to the eastern summit of Rainbow Mountain, then worked west to the normal Oak Creek descent route. This took us almost six hours, and we generally knew the way.
Further info on this route can be found at this site.
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