Black and Tan

Black and Tan is a nice addition to the day after climbing a neighboring route in Juniper Canyon. It faces northwest and is in the shade most of the year. Start on a moderate crack tending right that leads to a steeper section of 5.9 face climbing with protection in pods. An attentive belay is important here, as there is a ledge not far below and long slings are recomended to reduce drag. A crucial #1 camalot placement is awkward to place and on the right, then climb up on positive holds to a bolt. From there, continue up and right past 6 more bolts with thoughtful face climbing on beautiful brown stone between black water streaks to a high crux. Bust a move left and finish up a moderate dihedral (0.4 and 0.75 camalot, slings) to an anchor. It is possible to climb slightly right of the line between bolts 3 and 5 at an easier grade, but the direct routes is better climbing.

An intermediate anchor at bolt 3 allows one to lower and clean with a 70 meter rope (a 60 meter might work but it's close, tie a knot!). Give the rope a solid tug when pulling to keep it out of the bushes to the right.

Easily visible from the Juniper canyon trail, the route sits alone on the south side slightly before where the trail diverges for Brownstone and Rainbow walls. The start is ~100 ft from the main trail where a fairly obvious clearing leads to the base.

Single rack 0.3 - 3 camalot, doubles 0.5 - 1. Optional small to medium nuts. 14 draws with lots of long slings to reduce drag.