Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
FA: | 11/2023 |
Page Views: | 312 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | FAnonymous on Nov 18, 2023 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Black and Tan is a nice addition to the day after climbing a neighboring route in Juniper Canyon. It faces northwest and is in the shade most of the year. Start on a moderate crack tending right that leads to a steeper section of 5.9 face climbing with protection in pods. An attentive belay is important here, as there is a ledge not far below and long slings are recomended to reduce drag. A crucial #1 camalot placement is awkward to place and on the right, then climb up on positive holds to a bolt. From there, continue up and right past 6 more bolts with thoughtful face climbing on beautiful brown stone between black water streaks to a high crux. Bust a move left and finish up a moderate dihedral (0.4 and 0.75 camalot, slings) to an anchor. It is possible to climb slightly right of the line between bolts 3 and 5 at an easier grade, but the direct routes is better climbing.
An intermediate anchor at bolt 3 allows one to lower and clean with a 70 meter rope (a 60 meter might work but it's close, tie a knot!). Give the rope a solid tug when pulling to keep it out of the bushes to the right.
0 Comments