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Hook, Line, and Whimper
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Cloud Tower
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Black and Tan T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Black Cloud T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Clod Tower, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cloud Tower T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crimson Chrysalis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Disciple, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Far Side, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hook, Line, and Whimper T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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It's a Girl - It's a Boy ! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Laceration Spur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pachyderm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Spare Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Test Tube T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Thag-Hag T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thagomizer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tiger Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Bruce Lella & Mike Carr, 1982 (ground up) |
| Page Views: | 2,594 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Lamancusa on Mar 21, 2009 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
If you find yourself at the back of the line to climb Crimson Crystalis, and you are comfortable leading 5.10 R, this will make a great day. Most of the bolts on this route look like they are strait out of the 70's, but they are in good shape and could take a good fall.
Pitch 1 starts about 25 Ft left of Crimson. The first pitch is solid 5.8 and a ton of fun. Go strait up through discontinuous cracks past 2 bolts. There are several opportunities for trad gear. Mostly nuts, but small cams are a possibility. 2 bolt anchor at the top of the pitch.
Pitch 2 starts out with several good cam placements in a dihedral. One #4 can be placed in the widest section of the dihedral. (wish I had one when I did it!) The pitch then increases in difficulty and moves up and left over a bulge and onto the face. The holds are very good, but there is no opportunity for gear placements until the anchors about 20 Ft away. Pitch 2 finishes with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9-
Pitch 3 is a little confusing when you are at the start. There are 2 bolts strait above and one bolt way up to the right. It looks like the route could be climbed by going strait up, but it would definitely bump up the grade on the climb. The route is meant to go up and to the right over a small ledge. We clipped the first bolt strait overhead and then traversed right about 15 Ft, clipped another bolt, then worked over the ledge. This was the crux of the climb. By clipping the first bolt overhead, it added a lot of head-game and safety benefit, but caused SERIOUS rope drag at the top of the pitch. After pulling over the bulge and on the small ledge, move up and left to 2 more bolts. Both are pretty runout in between. After this, move strait up, through another seriously runout section, to a 2 bolt anchor. However, do NOT set up your anchor here. This is a hanging belay, but if you go up another 15 Ft, there is ANOTHER 2 bolt anchor on a fantastic ledge. Power through and get to this ledge. A few small cam and nut placements are possible on this pitch and can help make the runouts better. 10.a/b
Pitch 4 goes strait up through another runout section. Some flakes look they would take gear, but are really loose and wouldn't support a fall. After 15-20 Ft, work up and right to a bolt. Move straight right to meet up with the 6th pitch of Crimson Crystalis. The final 25ft of this pitch are on Crimson and has 2 bolts, plus multiple gear opportunities.
Rappel down Crimson Crystalis. Careful of getting your rope stuck!
Overall, the route was a ton of fun. If you are a solid 5.10 climber, you will have no problems with the moves on this route. The runouts are big, but the moves are solid. Since its not climbed nearly as much as Crimson, some of the holds are loose and shouldn't be used. If someone lives in the area, and feels like having another project, this route could be vastly improved by adding a few more bolts in the runout sections that can't take gear.
Pitch 1 starts about 25 Ft left of Crimson. The first pitch is solid 5.8 and a ton of fun. Go strait up through discontinuous cracks past 2 bolts. There are several opportunities for trad gear. Mostly nuts, but small cams are a possibility. 2 bolt anchor at the top of the pitch.
Pitch 2 starts out with several good cam placements in a dihedral. One #4 can be placed in the widest section of the dihedral. (wish I had one when I did it!) The pitch then increases in difficulty and moves up and left over a bulge and onto the face. The holds are very good, but there is no opportunity for gear placements until the anchors about 20 Ft away. Pitch 2 finishes with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9-
Pitch 3 is a little confusing when you are at the start. There are 2 bolts strait above and one bolt way up to the right. It looks like the route could be climbed by going strait up, but it would definitely bump up the grade on the climb. The route is meant to go up and to the right over a small ledge. We clipped the first bolt strait overhead and then traversed right about 15 Ft, clipped another bolt, then worked over the ledge. This was the crux of the climb. By clipping the first bolt overhead, it added a lot of head-game and safety benefit, but caused SERIOUS rope drag at the top of the pitch. After pulling over the bulge and on the small ledge, move up and left to 2 more bolts. Both are pretty runout in between. After this, move strait up, through another seriously runout section, to a 2 bolt anchor. However, do NOT set up your anchor here. This is a hanging belay, but if you go up another 15 Ft, there is ANOTHER 2 bolt anchor on a fantastic ledge. Power through and get to this ledge. A few small cam and nut placements are possible on this pitch and can help make the runouts better. 10.a/b
Pitch 4 goes strait up through another runout section. Some flakes look they would take gear, but are really loose and wouldn't support a fall. After 15-20 Ft, work up and right to a bolt. Move straight right to meet up with the 6th pitch of Crimson Crystalis. The final 25ft of this pitch are on Crimson and has 2 bolts, plus multiple gear opportunities.
Rappel down Crimson Crystalis. Careful of getting your rope stuck!
Overall, the route was a ton of fun. If you are a solid 5.10 climber, you will have no problems with the moves on this route. The runouts are big, but the moves are solid. Since its not climbed nearly as much as Crimson, some of the holds are loose and shouldn't be used. If someone lives in the area, and feels like having another project, this route could be vastly improved by adding a few more bolts in the runout sections that can't take gear.
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