Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||644 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Rprops on Nov 17, 2019|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
This whole line is aesthetic, obvious, and fun. Every pitch is basically 5.9.
Pitches 1-3 are the same as Thagomizer.
P1. 35m. Instead of starting in the obvious crack, you can save yourself some effort by using the face to the right. The rock is great. Follow the stellar crack, making a few moves out on the face that feel committing but always land you on a great jug. Climb above the tree, and belay on top of the white rock, on a wobbly boulder.
P2. 20m. Go up.
P3. 30m. Up the chimney. Harder and better than it looks. Stop on the ledge with the old bolt. (I climbed up the corner, made an anchor, and downclimbed for comfort).
P4. 35m. Follow the crack upward. Move left into the hueco/flake feature to surpass the seamed corner. (Or not, it's a free country.) Above you will have a reasonable stance, and be looking up and right to what looks like a scary, runout corner with no protection. Soldier on and be pleasantly surprised that every single hold is good, and small cams protect it very well. Follow the crack above to the overhang, traverse hard right (5.5) to the top of Thagomizer, and belay.
The Rappels were pretty easy and clean.
R1. 40m. Off the small tree. Go 10' below the ledge with the bolt to a bomber slung thread on a small ledge.
R2. 50m. Rap to the tree just below the P1 belay.
R3. 30m. Rap to the ground.
Best approach is to hike far up canyon as if going to the Black Pearl, Brownstone, etc. As you get to the highest point on the hill between Cloud Tower and Jackrabbit buttress, hike through the scrub oak toward the feature (climbers trail if you can find it).
Alternatively, I have made it there from Cloud Tower very easily. but that is some wasted elevation.