Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 644 total · 31/month
Shared By: Rprops on Nov 17, 2019
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The direct finish to Thagomizer.  
This whole line is aesthetic, obvious, and fun.  Every pitch is basically 5.9.
Pitches 1-3 are the same as Thagomizer.

P1.  35m.   Instead of starting in the obvious crack, you can save yourself some effort by using the face to the right.  The rock is great.  Follow the stellar crack, making a few moves out on the face that feel committing but always land you on a great jug.  Climb above the tree, and belay on top of the white rock, on a wobbly boulder.  

P2. 20m.  Go up.

P3.  30m.  Up the chimney.  Harder and better than it looks.  Stop on the ledge with the old bolt.  (I climbed up the corner, made an anchor, and downclimbed for comfort).

P4.  35m.  Follow the crack upward.  Move left into the hueco/flake feature to surpass the seamed corner. (Or not, it's a free country.) Above you will have a reasonable stance, and be looking up and right to what looks like a scary, runout corner with no protection.  Soldier on and be pleasantly surprised that every single hold is good, and small cams protect it very well.  Follow the crack above to the overhang, traverse hard right (5.5) to the top of Thagomizer, and belay.

The Rappels were pretty easy and clean.
R1. 40m.  Off the small tree.  Go 10' below the ledge with the bolt to a bomber slung thread on a small ledge.
R2. 50m.  Rap to the tree just below the P1 belay.
R3. 30m.  Rap to the ground.

Location

As you hike up Juniper Canyon, this feature is staring you in the face.  Obvious big corner/crack.  
Best approach is to hike far up canyon as if going to the Black Pearl, Brownstone, etc.  As you get to the highest point on the hill between Cloud Tower and Jackrabbit buttress, hike through the scrub oak toward the feature (climbers trail if you can find it).  

Alternatively, I have made it there from Cloud Tower very easily. but that is some wasted elevation.

Protection

Tiny cams up to #5. Doubles .5-1 are nice on the first pitch. No bolted anchors.

Photos

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