Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 36.11237, -115.48908
FA: 1/2022
Page Views: 610 total · 25/month
Shared By: FAnonymous on Jan 6, 2024
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Description Suggest change

Black Cloud ascends a pillar of high quality stone approximately 100 feet downhill of the start of cloud tower. It can also serve as a more difficult alternative start to the first 2 pitches of that route.

Pitch 1 (5.7, 60'): This scrappy approach pitch climbs up blocky terrain around trees to a slab move protected by a bolt, then to a comfortable ledge with an anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.12b, 115' ****): Start up the crack on the left, moving back right and up past 6 bolts with technical climbing in a shallow, varnished corner. A rest after the final bolt leads to easier but equal quality climbing with abundant but thoughtful protection leading straight up the face through a prominent hueco at 2/3rds height, and eventually an anchor. If continuing on to the rest of Cloud Tower, pass this anchor to moderate climbing and an anchor (bolt, fixed nut) on a ledge. One more pitch of easy climbing leads to a ledge, which can be walked to CT.

Pitch 2 (alternative finish 115' ***): At the rest ledge after the bolted portion of the route, continue up and traverse right about 6 feet before the large hueco mentioned above. Protection and face holds lead around the arete to a featured crack and eventually an anchor.

Location Suggest change

~100 feet right of the start of Cloud Tower. (see photo)

Protection Suggest change

Cams: Black alien to Red Camalot, doubles from blue to red alien (narrow headed cams like aliens, totems, z4s are best). Nuts: Full set of HB offset brass (doubles in 5 and 6 could come in handy). Full set of aluminum offsets.

Photos

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