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Dinosaur Rock
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Big Bob Cranks 
Dinosaur Tracks 
East Bone 
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Milk Bone 
Patience Face 
Pretty in Pinkler 
Rug Munchers 
Shaft, The 
South Ramps 
Unknown L Huecos 
Unknown R Huecos 
West Bone 
West Face [Dinosaur Rock] 

Milk Bone 

5.13a

   

FA: Chris Weidner, Matt Samet
New Route: Yes
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.13a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 110 feet
Season: spring, summer, fall
Views: 187 page views

Submitted By: msamet on Jul 17, 2008


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Chris Weidner making it look casual on the FA.


Description 

This climbs the pronounced, limestone-like tufa feature in the middle of the north face of Dinosaur Rock. It's 30 meters long, and sustained as all hell once you step off the ledge below the tufa. It is about 20 feet west (uphill) from Patience Face. One of the best single-pitch climbs I've done in Colorado...or anywhere.

Scramble up the ramps, and then move right to left across the lower choss ledges to start.


Location 

Center of the north face of Dinosaur Rock.


Protection 

The rigging is complex, but once you have the ropes up for this or Patience Face, it's not too hard to move the anchors around.

1. Ascend the west face of Dinosaur Rock (4th class/5.0). Drop over the summit to a small ledge on the east face, eight feet down.

2. On this ledge, tie a rigging rope (static line) through a hole/thread in a big flake. You could back this up with cams or other flakes/horns there. Rap down this line about 20 feet to a ledgy area with cracks.

3. Here, anchor the other end of the rigging rope to a #4 Camalot, #7 Metolius, #2 Camalot, #1 Camalot (#5 Camalot optional).

4. Rap north-northwest to the lip from here on one end of the rigging rope or another. You can put in a giant cam (#6 Friend) right at the lip to keep the rigging ropes running where you want them. There might be other options, too. Set up the rigging lines as two arms of a toprope. Drop down your 60-meter; rig a toprope. Get lowered.

5. On the way down you'll want a #3 or #4 TCU as a directional right of the tufa, and a red (#1) Camalot for the roof.