When the second pitch begins to get Real on Passio...
The view from the south side of Looking Glass encompasses a huge vista of Pisgah National Forest. To the west you can see several large but low-angle slabs. This is Cedar Rock Mountain. In 1986 Charles Ivey "discovered" a relatively easy approach to the hidden western aspect of the mountain. This is Cedar Rock proper. This steep, intimidating chunk of granite is one of the best face climbing venues in the region. Being a west facing cliff, it is cool on summer mornings and warm on winter afternoons.
From Brevard, NC, follow US 64 west to Cathy's Creek Road on the right. Look for signs for Forest Service Camp Kuykendall. Follow Cathy's Creek for about 5.9 miles to an obvious car park on the right. Follow the trail for about a mile to Low Gap and the Art Loeb Trail intersection. Go straight for a quarter mile. At Butter Gap there is a junction of several trails. Go straight across to the unmarked trail which is an old logging road. If you are going up hill, you chose the wrong route. Back up and take the next one to the right. If you hit the shelter, back up and take the next trail to the left. Follow it to the rock.
Weather station 4.2 miles from here
76 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',35],['2 Stars',26],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Cedar Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cedar Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cedar Rock:
Featured Route For Cedar Rock
Rain Dance 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a NC
: Cedar Rock
: Cedar Rock - North
A good new route that has some surprisingly good holds. Probably the best warm up on the wall but still a bit spicy in places. More of a 5.10 for a 5.11 climber. Can be done in one long pitch, especially if using doubles, or in two short pitches. Note: The upper section climbs just right of a prominent wet streak, but the route is unaffected.Start same as for Native Dance/Invasive Species and climb about 30 feet up before moving left into flakes and past some vegetation on easy ground. From here...[more] Browse More Classics in NC
A nice little route called cuttin' the rug. Jon l...
BETA PHOTO: Looking Glass, John's Rock, and Cedar Rock from Ch...
blank faces are scary places
Sean Cobourn on Caught Up In The Air 5.10, pitch ...
Caught Up In The Air- photo by Thomas Kelley
By Mike Reardon
Apr 16, 2013
Check out grounduppublishing.com for a copy of your "Cedar Rock and Satellite Crags", outlining 200+ climbs in this area. The book covers all 7 faces of Cedar in full detail, Victory Wall, Cathey's Creek, Pilot Rock, Fish Bowl Crag, and an abridged John Rock. You can order online or message me for a $23 copy. Enjoy!
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 15, 2013
+1 for a good guide book. I left the NC Select book at home yesterday and just brought this new one from Mike. It was more than what I needed to have a successful day in the area. If you plan to spend a good amount of time in the Pisgah area, this guide is a must.
By William Turner
From: Carmel, Indiana
Nov 5, 2013
what are the rules on bolting here?
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
Nov 7, 2013
No set rules. This is, with some exceptions, a ground-up crag in a wilderness setting. Bolts in close proximity to naturally protectable features are generally frowned upon. Stainless steel hardware only please. The Main Wall has been picked over pretty closely over the past 30 years, probably not too much opportunity for new routes there that wouldn't be considered a squeeze job.