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Routes in Cedar Rock - North

5.9 for the Tough Guy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Banana Peel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bayne's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Swan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bump, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack Cocaine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cut In The Rug T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dandy Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness on the Edge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Feat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fish Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fledgling, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight of The Raven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Forget Me Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gaskin/Cobourn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gay by Proxy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get in the groove T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hemlock Graveyard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invasive Species T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It's All Pink On The Inside S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Little Dickie and the No-No Zone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Luau In Your Mouth S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Media Whore T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Micromanagement S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Tumnus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Native Dance T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Northern Enclosure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Operant Conditioning T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pending Nuptials S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power of One T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raven's Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route of Northern Aggression T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1
Route of Passive Aggression, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ruthless T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex Is A Chore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smear The Queer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snot Nose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Hospitality T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
That's What She Said T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Un Named T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vomiting Verglass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where the Red Ferns Grow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whodunnit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ed Maggert, Van Krussow
Page Views: 2,548 total, 45/month
Shared By: Edward Medina on Apr 10, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the acute corner feature sort of in the middle of the wall. Crux is getting off the ground. Protects well throughout. There is a second pitch that climbs the steep slab above the corner.

Protection

Rappell from a tree off to the left.

Photos

Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
I tried to do the second pitch of this climb (5.8) as described in Mike Reardon's guide. Can anybody familiar with this cliff tell me what I ended up climbing? I ended up doing this, about 150 feet:

-Step left at belay and pass some featured rock up to a bolt at ~25ft
-Continue up leaning flared crack, gaining some pro where the crack allows
-Get totally confused about how the route goes over the roof. Dirt everywhere. Easy features waaaaay to the left where the roof ends but seemed so far out as to be off route, also dirty as sin. Step right ~15 ft to another bolt.
-Go up to the cleanest and most featured part of the roof. A big jug, knobs, pinches, and some protectable eyebrows let you get over the bulge easily enough. Also incredibly fun.
-Follow a left-leaning crack (as it is the only pro)
-Find out the crack ends soon in a hideously dirty mess of lichen and pine needles. Make a #2 placement slung very long and step right to a protectionless (but much cleaner) slab face.
-Climb scary 5.8/9 slab up to some muddy moss and decent condition tat on a big tree.
-No bolts anywhere despite the book showing two sets
-Rap 100 ft to dandy line anchors
-Rap 100 ft to ground

I also saw some tat (looked unplanned, but kind of new) way out left on a bush island above the roof Sep 25, 2017
Heath Alexander
Asheville, NC
Heath Alexander   Asheville, NC
I added a 2 bolt anchor on 4/23/16. It is directly above this route to provide clean rope movement for top roping. It can also serve Forget Me Not. The previous rappel anchor was disturbing. Apr 24, 2016
Great short corner, wish it was longer. I replaced the old webbing with new. I'd be happy to replace it with some bolts. Sep 24, 2015
The FA party has granted permission for a two bolt anchor to be placed up on the ledge. Go for it if you have the proper means. Nov 23, 2013
John Braun
Hendersonville, NC
John Braun   Hendersonville, NC
The tree on the left is rooted in steep steep dirt behind a perched boulder. As i was setting up to rap, i was exposing the roots of the tree. It does not seem sustainable to continue using the tree, plus you lose some good climbing. It seems more natural to belay from the top of the pillar, but that would require new bolts. Jun 17, 2013