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Routes in Cedar Rock - North

5.9 for the Tough Guy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Banana Peel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bayne's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Swan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bump, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack Cocaine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cut In The Rug T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dandy Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness on the Edge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Feat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fish Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fledgling, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight of The Raven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Forget Me Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gaskin/Cobourn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gay by Proxy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get in the groove T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hemlock Graveyard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invasive Species T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It's All Pink On The Inside S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Little Dickie and the No-No Zone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Luau In Your Mouth S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Media Whore T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Micromanagement S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Tumnus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Native Dance T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Northern Enclosure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Operant Conditioning T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pending Nuptials S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power of One T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raven's Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route of Northern Aggression T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1
Route of Passive Aggression, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ruthless T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex Is A Chore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smear The Queer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snot Nose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Hospitality T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
That's What She Said T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Un Named T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vomiting Verglass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where the Red Ferns Grow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whodunnit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This north facing crag has been known to ice-climbing locals for quite a while. There are prominent water flows that may interfere with climbing some of the classic features. But when the weather warms and the rains slow down, this is a premier Southern Blue Ridge destination. Recently 'rediscovered' this cliff has seen a spate of new development by the likes of Sean Cobourn, Stephen Scoff, and Nathan Brown.

Getting There

At the Butter Gap intersection take the rising trail on your left. You will soon descend into a saddle. From here head along a faintly marked climbers trail on your left until you reach your destination.

46 Total Climbs

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Location: Cedar Rock - North Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Cedar Rock - North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 19
Darkness on the Edge
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Dandy Line
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Hemlock Graveyard
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Fish Bowl
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
Flight of The Raven
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Raven's Arch
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Black Swan
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Operant Conditioning
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Gay by Proxy
Trad, Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Un Named
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
Banana Peel
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Invasive Species
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Cut In The Rug
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Fancy Feat
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1
 4
Route of Northern Aggression
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Darkness on the Edge
 19
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dandy Line
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hemlock Graveyard
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Fish Bowl
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Flight of The Raven
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Raven's Arch
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Black Swan
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Operant Conditioning
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Gay by Proxy
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Un Named
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Banana Peel
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Invasive Species
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Cut In The Rug
 5
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Fancy Feat
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
Route of Northern Aggression
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Cedar Rock - North »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
A beautiful place. The hike is pleasant and straightforward. Lots of good routes here, and the prettiest dang view of Looking Glass I can imagine! The climbing reminded me of LG South side to some extent. Sep 27, 2017
UPDATE ON NORTH CEDAR PEREGRINE CLOSURE: Carolina Climbers Coalition, the State Wildlife Commission, and the Forest Service have been working together for the past few weeks to pinpoint the necessary closure boundaries at North Cedar. It has been a great collaborative process where both the peregrines are better protected for nesting and more climbing resources remain open. Initially, the closure stated "the Morning Glory Portion" which was inaccurate and would have unnecessarily closed all of North Cedar's 70 routes during nesting season. Due to land contours and a more accurate nest location, we narrowed down the necessary closure to the Roof of Northern Aggression Area, specifically between routes Baynes Corner and Groove Thang. Classics further left like Cut in the Rug and the ice at Cedar Gem will remain open year round, but that further left area will have to be accessed via the Butter Gap trail from the north. There is not a good trail coming in from Butter Gap Trail, take the Butter Gap Trail about 1/2 mile, then cut uphill off trail and you'll find it. DO NOT ENTER the base of the Roof of Northern Aggression Area during nesting season. The signs were posted today at these closure areas. The map attached to this email has been approved by the FS and State Wildlife Commission. It is also important to note that this closure typically runs Mid Jan- Mid Aug but is often lifted early based on the fledglings. Updates on this closure will be made in Southern Pisgah Rock and Ice, the upcoming guide book fromgrounduppublishing.com.

The former peregrine closure at Victory Wall has now been lifted.

Side note: if you are not a CCC member, consider becoming one. Feb 6, 2018

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