Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Hans Solo
Page Views: 684 total · 12/month
Shared By: nbrown on Apr 2, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A good new route that has some surprisingly good holds. Probably the best warm up on the wall but still a bit spicy in places. More of a 5.10 for a 5.11 climber. Can be done in one long pitch, especially if using doubles, or in two short pitches.

Note: The upper section climbs just right of a prominent wet streak, but the route is unaffected.

Start same as for Native Dance/Invasive Species and climb about 30 feet up before moving left into flakes and past some vegetation on easy ground. From here move up to the wide left facing corner and get some gear (#4). Move up and right through overlaps to clip the bolt from jugs. Cruxy moves up will gain a stance and the eyebrow-laced face above. Follow the path of least resistance up and slightly left to the optional belay on nuts/cams. From here climb around the bulge and onto good ledge/flake above. Continue up the streak (save a #1 camelot for here) past mildly spicy pro to the double bolt anchor on the ledge near the top. The wall above the anchors is typically wet so rap from here.

To rappel with single line, rap down and right to thread on Native Dance. This also keeps your ropes out of the water to the left.

Location

Left of "Native Dance" and just on the edge of the steep shield of rock.

Protection

Standard eyebrow-climbing rack which should include double cams up to hand size. A #4 camelot is nice to protect the move up to the bolt.

Photos

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