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Routes in Cedar Rock - North

5.9 for the Tough Guy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Banana Peel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bayne's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Swan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bump, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack Cocaine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cut In The Rug T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dandy Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness on the Edge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Feat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fish Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fledgling, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight of The Raven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Forget Me Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gaskin/Cobourn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gay by Proxy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get in the groove T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hemlock Graveyard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invasive Species T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It's All Pink On The Inside S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Little Dickie and the No-No Zone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Luau In Your Mouth S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Media Whore T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Micromanagement S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Tumnus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Native Dance T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Northern Enclosure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Operant Conditioning T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pending Nuptials S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power of One T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raven's Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route of Northern Aggression T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1
Route of Passive Aggression, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ruthless T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex Is A Chore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smear The Queer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snot Nose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Hospitality T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
That's What She Said T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Un Named T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vomiting Verglass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where the Red Ferns Grow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whodunnit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 310 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Reardon, Sean Cobourn, Ken Pitts
Page Views: 435 total, 8/month
Shared By: Mike Reardon on Apr 26, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Mostly moderate climbing with several surprise features and envelope slots for gear.
P1: 5.10b 100 ft. Climb past two bolts placed close together over the crimpy crux, traverse right for a few pieces of gear, sling the tree, then up a 5.7 face to a gear belay in the bowl.
P2: 5.9- 100+/- ft. Head up and left of the bowl passing great gear and an undercling move. At about 70 feet up, you can traverse left for the Black Swan P1 anchors, or continue another 30-40 feet up and right of the Black Swan Anchors for a gear belay in any of the cam eating eyebrows.
P3: 5.7 100 ft Continue up the moderate face passing one bolt (believed to be placed on P2 of Black Swan) then a nasty mossy section with easy climbing to slings on a tree.
P2 and P3 can be combined but rope drag is an issue.

Location

40' right of Black Swan, locate two bolts close together leading to a tree. This is in the Far Left Area of the North Side.

Protection

Standard, 3 bolts total

Photos

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Mike Reardon  
 
If anyone found a purple TCU on P2 of this one in Fall '12...I would trade a beer for it back! Apr 26, 2013