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Routes in Cedar Rock - North

5.9 for the Tough Guy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Banana Peel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bayne's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Swan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bump, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack Cocaine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cut In The Rug T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dandy Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness on the Edge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Feat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fish Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fledgling, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight of The Raven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Forget Me Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gaskin/Cobourn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gay by Proxy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get in the groove T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hemlock Graveyard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invasive Species T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It's All Pink On The Inside S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Little Dickie and the No-No Zone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Luau In Your Mouth S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Media Whore T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Micromanagement S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Tumnus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Native Dance T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Northern Enclosure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Operant Conditioning T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pending Nuptials S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power of One T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raven's Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route of Northern Aggression T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1
Route of Passive Aggression, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ruthless T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex Is A Chore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smear The Queer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snot Nose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Hospitality T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
That's What She Said T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Un Named T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vomiting Verglass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where the Red Ferns Grow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whodunnit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 396 total, 9/month
Shared By: nbrown on Apr 21, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This was the first free line through the amazing headwall (BB's Native Dance was the first line), and the one that opened the gate to several excellent routes above.

While the whole route is fun, pitch one is the lesser quality intro pitch, with pitch two being the money pitch. Unfortunately it's somewhat overshadowed by the crack of "Cut In The Rug" just to the left.

P-1 (intro pitch)
Climb to a ledge and wander up a brief section of blocky (hollow) terrain to a line of bolts. Climb past 3 bolts to an optional #0 TCU (hidden a couple feet above bolt). Continue up past a #1 TCU slot to the 4th bolt. Make bouldery eyebrow moves to gain a horizontal rail (small cam here for traverse)and then move right to the belay.

P-2 (money pitch)
Climb up and right to the stance where "Cut In The Rug" diverges left. From here, move up and right following weird grooves/cracks and jugs to a line of bolts that lead through the eyebrow-laced face and to a groove. Climb groove past a funky shallow finger size cam to easier terrain and the anchor up and left.

Location

See picture topo. First pitch gains several optional second pitch variations, including the excellent crack and eyebrow-laced face of Cut In Th Rug.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3 camelot

Photos

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