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Routes in Cedar Rock - North

5.9 for the Tough Guy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Banana Peel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bayne's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Swan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bump, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack Cocaine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cut In The Rug T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dandy Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness on the Edge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Feat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fish Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fledgling, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight of The Raven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Forget Me Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gaskin/Cobourn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gay by Proxy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get in the groove T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hemlock Graveyard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invasive Species T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It's All Pink On The Inside S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Little Dickie and the No-No Zone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Luau In Your Mouth S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Media Whore T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Micromanagement S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Tumnus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Native Dance T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Northern Enclosure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Operant Conditioning T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pending Nuptials S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power of One T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raven's Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route of Northern Aggression T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1
Route of Passive Aggression, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ruthless T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex Is A Chore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smear The Queer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snot Nose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Hospitality T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
That's What She Said T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Un Named T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vomiting Verglass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where the Red Ferns Grow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whodunnit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Sean Cobourn and Brian Gulden (with help from Lauren James and Mike Reardon)
Page Views: 704 total, 19/month
Shared By: Sean Cobourn on Nov 18, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This was the first route to crack the roof. It is "controversial" due to the pitch two bolt ladder. Some folks think it will go free at 5.13.
1.At left end of large roof band, climb fun 5.10 face to a belay shared with Gay By Proxy.
2. Follow the bolt ladder out the roof to the right to a hanging belay.
3. Climb a difficult, steep water groove to a bolted belay.
4. You can continue up lichen slab, 5.4 if it is dry, to the top if you want and hike out right on a trail of sorts. Or rap the route. Two ropes needed for that option.

Location

left end of roof band

Protection

mostly bolts but small to medium cams are required for first and third pitches.

Photos

nbrown
western NC
nbrown   western NC
I did the first 2 pitches a couple weeks ago, and I think that short of two moves on pitch 2, the route is very doable in the 11 range. However, getting into the dihedral is probably 12+, and there is a blank face move up high that would likely be harder. It's an awesome feature and someone should go free this thing! Pitch 3 looks fun but I haven't gotten to it yet. Nov 18, 2014