Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Sean Cobourn and Brian Gulden (with help from Lauren James and Mike Reardon)
Page Views: 843 total · 17/month
Shared By: Sean Cobourn on Nov 18, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This was the first route to crack the roof. It is "controversial" due to the pitch two bolt ladder. Some folks think it will go free at 5.13.
1.At left end of large roof band, climb fun 5.10 face to a belay shared with Gay By Proxy.
2. Follow the bolt ladder out the roof to the right to a hanging belay.
3. Climb a difficult, steep water groove to a bolted belay.
4. You can continue up lichen slab, 5.4 if it is dry, to the top if you want and hike out right on a trail of sorts. Or rap the route. Two ropes needed for that option.

Location

left end of roof band

Protection

mostly bolts but small to medium cams are required for first and third pitches.

Photos

nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
I did the first 2 pitches a couple weeks ago, and I think that short of two moves on pitch 2, the route is very doable in the 11 range. However, getting into the dihedral is probably 12+, and there is a blank face move up high that would likely be harder. It's an awesome feature and someone should go free this thing! Pitch 3 looks fun but I haven't gotten to it yet. Nov 18, 2014
Ben Wu
North Carolina
Ben Wu   North Carolina
Hangers are missing from the second half of pitch 2 Sep 27, 2018 · Temporary Report