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Igor Unchained 

5.9+

   

FA: Laeger & Clark - August, 1976
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 3 pitches
Views: 1,421 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006


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climber high on Igor


Description 

A classic introduction to the Needles. 5.9++.

Descend into the main amphitheater and locate the first obvious crack system that splits the entire Witch ground to summit. This system is immediately right (and well below) the obvious traverse crack of Airy Interlude.

P1: Climb a really long, sustained hand crack through bulges to a belay stance. 5.9+

P2: Climb a really long, sustained hand crack through bulges to a sloping ledge system. 5.9+

P3: Take off from the right end of the big, sloping ledge up a wild crack system that breaches a roof using jugs. Run this all the way to the summit on easier terrain. 5.9+

Descend north - see the Witch description for more info.


Protection 

Double set of cams (possibly triples) to #3 Camalot.



Add Photo Photos of Igor Unchained
Looking up from the base at a party at the first belay.

Looking up from the base at a party at the first b...

Looking down from halfway through P3

Looking down from halfway through P3

The final few feet, with the Magician and Charlatan in the distance

The final few feet, with the Magician and Charlata...

Gunning it on Igor Unchained.  Photo by AJ Burch.

Gunning it on Igor Unchained. Photo by AJ Burch.

Joy Schneiter on the first pitch of Igor Unchained.

Joy Schneiter on the first pitch of Igor Unchained...

Joy Schneiter on the third pitch of Igor Unchained.

Joy Schneiter on the third pitch of Igor Unchained...

Joy Schneiter climbing the first pitch of Igor Unchained.

Joy Schneiter climbing the first pitch of Igor Unc...


Add Comment Comments on Igor Unchained
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By Darshan Ahluwalia
Jun 11, 2007
rating: 5.9

This is one of the best 5.9s in the galaxy.

By Eric Rhicard
Jul 18, 2007

I have to second the previous statement. It was a blast!

By Rob Dillon
From: Leadville, CO
Aug 14, 2007

The meaning of the route's name should become clear after a couple hundred moves.

By spurvis
Oct 16, 2007
rating: 5.9

Good news for climbers on a budget: with a little confidence, I'd say this route is easily done on a single set of cams. I brought doubles in the 1"-3" range, as suggested, but never used them. On the third pitch, I used almost entirely nuts. May not be the best idea, however, if you're not comfortable with the grade or not used to crack climbing. When I did it in fall, pitches 1 & 2 remained almost completely shaded (brrrrrrr) while pitch 3 got sun in the afternoon.