Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Snowshed Wall
Show routes:
Select route...
Alvin's Route (TR) 
Ariel 
Bell Bottom Blues 
Bottomless Topless 
Brainchild 
Composure 
Conform or Be Cast Out 
Crack of the Eighties 
Devaluation Direct 
Disciples Of the New Wave 
Farewell to Arms 
Hair and Now 
Hair Lip 
Hair Shirt 
Jam Session 
Karl's Gym 
Little Feat 
Manic Depression 
Molar Concentration 
Monkey Paws 
Nova Express 
Palsy 
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster 
Panic in Detroit 
Pea Soup 
Peter Principle 
Rage Reduction 
Rapid Transit 
Rick and Eric's 
Sanitation Crack 
Split Pea 
Thing, The 
Welcome to My Nightmare 

Nova Express 

5.9

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Views: 597 page views

Submitted By: Blitzo on Nov 11, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Trying to pro up the last steep and wide crux of N...


Description 

This is the beautiful jamcrack in the center of the East Face.


Protection 

Pro to 2.5".



Comments on Nova Express Add Comment
Show which comments
By 426
Mar 6, 2007

Be careful protecting the bottom. The flakes are loose. This pitch has cratered several people with broken legs and maybe even a fatality.

5.9+ for sure. Not for the fledgling 9 leader...at all.

I'd take a few larger pieces as well.

By Tyler Logan
From: Running Springs
Mar 24, 2008

I agree that this is a stout 5.9! While it does protect very well, care must be taken to place gear so that it doesn't get in your way. There is a distinct crux about halfway up, although the whole climb is fairly strenuous.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 15, 2008

Great climb, some grainy rock. The cupped hand jams through the crux will chew you up if you're not careful.

By Joe Dawson
May 12, 2009

Don't let the previous comments scare you off from doing this route. The bottom part of the climb before you get in the crack is perfectly protectable. I think I put a #4 Camalot in as my first or second piece pretty close to the bottom. After that, the largest piece you will need is a #3 Camalot.

The crack is splitter and takes good pro. This is a must do for all crack lovers.