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California
> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Donner Summit
> Snowshed Wall
> E Face
> 3. E Face Main
Death Tongue
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
Routes in 3. East Face Main
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Death Tongue S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Drop Out Left T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Drop Out Right to Left T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Farewell To Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Farewell to Fingers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Little Feat S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Narcoleptic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Nice Dreams T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Welcome To My Nightmare T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Doug Mishler, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,829 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | TravisJBurke on May 10, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The crimpfest to the climber's left of Farewell to Arms. Originally established at 5.12+, holds have broken to make it harder.
Follow the bolt line up in a sea of crimps (and a couple of pockets). Rest where you can because the climbing only gets harder. More obvious crimps will take you to the left of the bolt line near the top, with a heartbreaking crux at the last bolt as you dance into a seam that takes you to the anchor stance. Congratulations!
According to the guidebook, copping out to the arete before clipping the last bolt lowers the difficulty to 13a.
Follow the bolt line up in a sea of crimps (and a couple of pockets). Rest where you can because the climbing only gets harder. More obvious crimps will take you to the left of the bolt line near the top, with a heartbreaking crux at the last bolt as you dance into a seam that takes you to the anchor stance. Congratulations!
According to the guidebook, copping out to the arete before clipping the last bolt lowers the difficulty to 13a.
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