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Routes in East Face

Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Death Tongue S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Night Gallery aka Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad
FA: Max Jones and John Hoffman in 1979
Page Views: 1,355 total · 11/month
Shared By: urs on Jul 2, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

A very beautiful thin left leaning finger crack which then follows a vertical crack to a small ledge. Traverse the ledge to a bolt and follow the thin seam to another bolt. Now you can either go straight up through the bulge (12a) or traverse right along the original line and follow easy climbing to two bolts.

Location

This route is just to the right of Nova Express. It is the thin crack that looks impossible to protect but you can find solid pro.

Protection

This is a trad route so you need small pieces to 1 inch and a number 3 cam with a few slings and quickdraws for the two bolts at the top and the anchors.

Photos

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This route was lead all trad, no bolts, by the Fa team. Hence the name. Jun 27, 2009

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