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Narcoleptic
5.13 YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks X- UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in 3. East Face Main
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Death Tongue S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Drop Out Left T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Drop Out Right to Left T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Farewell To Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Farewell to Fingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Little Feat S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Narcoleptic S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Nice Dreams T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Welcome To My Nightmare T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Fan Yang |
| Page Views: | 237 total · 93/month |
| Shared By: | F Y on Nov 6, 2020 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Kyle Bishop, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
It climbs beautifully on bomber small edges, side pulls and thumberclings, as one might expect from a cryptic Donner summit granite face/slab climb. It's a shorter but much stouter sibling to the neighboring "Welcome to My Nightmare," "Nice Dreams," and "Death Tongue;" the name carries the theme forth. It reminded me of "Aromatic" at Pine Creek and "Holy Wars" at the ORG, only harder and thinner. The movement is ace; quality of rock is second to none! I left the proposed grade a bit vague and open-ended but I would welcome your opinions!
All hardware are stainless steel petzl wedge bolts and hangers! Go get on it!
(For toproping, a directional can be set higher than the last bolt by placing a cam in the crack features on the back of the ledge and a long sling.)
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