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Routes in East Face

Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Death Tongue S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 221 total · 5/month
Shared By: Lurker on Dec 21, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access Notes Details

Description [Edit]

Thin, technical, and slippery face start to hand crack. Kind of a sandbag at .10d. Recommend stick-clipping the bolt, as a fall before clipping would be ugly. Referred to as "Drop Out" in the Carville guide and "Drop Out 2" in the newer guidebook.

Location [Edit]

First route to the right of the obvious chimney (Rage Reduction).

Protection [Edit]

1 bolt, gear to 3", anchors.

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RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, CN
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, CN
The bottom would be terrifying if you biff it. The landing would send you tumbling back down towards Farewell to Arms.

Still, with the stick clip it's actually fun! Slick moves off the ground to a long reach to gain the crack. Things stay interesting with a steep section that things to fingers. A short route, for sure, but fun, nonetheless. I'd think that the middle section is probably .11a/.11-. Aug 8, 2016

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