||Ice, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700'
|Consensus: ||WI5-6 [details]|
|FA: ||Pitches 1-5: Todd Cozzens, Ric Miller (1988/89), Pitch 6: Stan Price, Jim Krudener (1992), Pitch 7: Stan Price, Aaron Huey (March, 2000)|
|Season: ||South Facing, Best in Colder Temps|
|Page Views: ||4,469|
|Submitted By: ||Andrew Klein on Feb 1, 2007|
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Ted Lange on Pitch 5 of Broken Hearts, February 20...
Broken Hearts has one of the more milder approaches in Cody. Allow 45 minutes. The gully is 3.4 miles from the Ishawooa Mesa Trailhead. Park by some cottonwood trees when you can see the first 2 pitches from the road. The route meanders in a gully and some short WI3 steps 5-20 feet high are encountered in between the main pitches, which are a short slog of 5-15 minutes. Pitches 6 & 7 (both WI6) are rarely formed. This is probably one of the longer ice routes in the lower 48 esp. if all pitches are in. Pitch 3 tends to be baked. In the 5th pitch amphitheatre the climb on the left is the Carotid Artery (M7 and/or WI6-FA Alex Lowe, Todd Cozzens, early 1990's) and the climb on the right, My Only Valentine, is the 5th pitch of Broken Hearts. Cheers!
P5: WI5 (My Only Valentine)
Descent: Use V-Threads. Trees can be used to rap a few of the pitches. One can also walk-off from before the 5th pitch amphitheatre. Check out Doug's comment below for more info.
Ice Screws, V-Threads for descent
Starting Broken Hearts, p1 & p2 in view. Late Febr...
On pitch 1 of Broken Hearts-photo by Stone Wells
Looking up at pitch 6. Read about the climb: pull...
Chris on pitch 2 of Broken Hearts
Heading up pitch 4 on Broken Hearts-photo by Stone...
Leading pitch 5, aka My Only Valentine, on Valenti...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 6 of Broken Hearts, February 2008. Plenty o...
Stone on Pitch 3 Broken Hearts
Pitch 5 of Broken Hearts-photo by Stone Wells
Chris Thompson on the 5th pitch pillar of Broken H...
Aaron Mulkey tops out the 3rd pitch of Broken Hear...
Third pitch of Broken Hearts
On the dry portion of The Carotid Artery (P5 Varia...
The Carotid Artery pitch, variation 5th pitch to B...
Jack Rodat, Pitch 3. Valentine's day, 2/14/14.
The normal 5th pitch (aka My Only Valentine).
Leading pitch 6 in the romantic evening light, 2/1...
By J. Albers
Feb 22, 2013
First two pitches were completely sunbaked with a thick layer of garbage ice everywhere on Monday, Feb. 18th. Second pitch had a big window forming near the exit and was delaminating from the rock. Given how these pitches looked compared to other times I have done this route, I can't imagine that the top of the third pitch is in.
By Kurt Ross
From: Boulder, colorado
Feb 3, 2014
Pitch 6 is in!!