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South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
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Broken Hearts 

WI5-6

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700'
Consensus: WI5+ [details]
FA: Pitches 1-5: Todd Cozzens, Ric Miller (1988/89), Pitch 6: Stan Price, Jim Krudener (1992), Pitch 7: Stan Price, Aaron Huey (March, 2000)
Season: South Facing, Best in Colder Temps
Page Views: 4,000
Submitted By: Andrew Klein on Feb 1, 2007
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Ted Lange on Pitch 5 of Broken Hearts, February 20...

Description 

Broken Hearts has one of the more milder approaches in Cody. Allow 45 minutes. The gully is 3.4 miles from the Ishawooa Mesa Trailhead. Park by some cottonwood trees when you can see the first 2 pitches from the road. The route meanders in a gully and some short WI3 steps 5-20 feet high are encountered in between the main pitches, which are a short slog of 5-15 minutes. Pitches 6 & 7 (both WI6) are rarely formed. This is probably one of the longer ice routes in the lower 48 esp. if all pitches are in. Pitch 3 tends to be baked. In the 5th pitch amphitheatre the climb on the left is the Carotid Artery (M7 and/or WI6-FA Alex Lowe, Todd Cozzens, early 1990's) and the climb on the right, My Only Valentine, is the 5th pitch of Broken Hearts. Cheers!
P1: WI3
P2: WI3
P3: WI3+
P4: WI3
P5: WI5 (My Only Valentine)
P6: WI6
P7: WI6

Descent: Use V-Threads. Trees can be used to rap a few of the pitches. One can also walk-off from before the 5th pitch amphitheatre. Check out Doug's comment below for more info.


Protection 

Ice Screws, V-Threads for descent



Photos of Broken Hearts Slideshow Add Photo
Starting Broken Hearts, p1 & p2 in view. Late February 2010
Starting Broken Hearts, p1 & p2 in view. Late Febr...
On pitch 1 of Broken Hearts-photo by Stone Wells
On pitch 1 of Broken Hearts-photo by Stone Wells
Looking up at pitch 6.  Read about the climb: <a href='http://pulldownnotout.blogspot.com/2014/02/cody-broken-hearts-on-valentines-day.html' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >pulldownnotout.blogspot.com/2014/02/cody-broken-hearts-on-va>>></a>
Looking up at pitch 6. Read about the climb: http...
Chris on pitch 2 of Broken Hearts
Chris on pitch 2 of Broken Hearts
Heading up pitch 4 on Broken Hearts-photo by Stone Wells
Heading up pitch 4 on Broken Hearts-photo by Stone...
Leading pitch 5, aka My Only Valentine, on Valentine's day, 2/14/14.
Leading pitch 5, aka My Only Valentine, on Valenti...
Pitch 6 of Broken Hearts, February 2008.  Plenty of ice but not enough daylight.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 6 of Broken Hearts, February 2008. Plenty o...
Stone on Pitch 3 Broken Hearts
Stone on Pitch 3 Broken Hearts
Pitch 5 of Broken Hearts-photo by Stone Wells
Pitch 5 of Broken Hearts-photo by Stone Wells
Chris Thompson on the 5th pitch pillar of Broken Hearts
Chris Thompson on the 5th pitch pillar of Broken H...
Aaron Mulkey tops out the 3rd pitch of Broken Hearts.
Aaron Mulkey tops out the 3rd pitch of Broken Hear...
Third pitch of Broken Hearts
Third pitch of Broken Hearts
On the dry portion of The Carotid Artery (P5 Variation)
On the dry portion of The Carotid Artery (P5 Varia...
The Carotid Artery pitch, variation 5th pitch to Broken Hearts.
The Carotid Artery pitch, variation 5th pitch to B...
Jack Rodat, Pitch 3. Valentine's day, 2/14/14.
Jack Rodat, Pitch 3. Valentine's day, 2/14/14.
The normal 5th pitch (aka My Only Valentine).
The normal 5th pitch (aka My Only Valentine).
Leading pitch 6 in the romantic evening light, 2/14/14.  read about it: <a href='http://pulldownnotout.blogspot.com/2014/02/cody-broken-hearts-on-valentines-day.html' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >pulldownnotout.blogspot.com/2014/02/cody-broken-hearts-on-va>>></a>
Leading pitch 6 in the romantic evening light, 2/1...
Comments on Broken Hearts Add Comment
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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Feb 22, 2013

CONDITION REPORT 

First two pitches were completely sunbaked with a thick layer of garbage ice everywhere on Monday, Feb. 18th. Second pitch had a big window forming near the exit and was delaminating from the rock. Given how these pitches looked compared to other times I have done this route, I can't imagine that the top of the third pitch is in.

By Kurt Ross
From: Boulder, colorado
Feb 3, 2014
rating: WI5-6

CONDITION REPORT 

Pitch 6 is in!!