Type: Ice, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,245 total · 38/month
Shared By: J J on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description

This is another classic long linkup of vertical ice sections winding its way up the south facing side of the valley. At 230 meters of ice, it is long off the deck, with the final monster-rope stretcher of a pitch to the trees above for an anchor (or screws a bit further down).

Pitch one can be the crux.  If it is formed, it is usually thin, and sun baked-an exciting lead.  You can also do a walk around of pitch one on the right up the scree, then take a ledge back left into the main drainage above pitch one.

Climb the remaining bulges, short curtains and either calf burning ice or snow plodding to the final pitch which is MONEY! Located next to an impressive geologic point of interest, and where the routes gets its name from, A HUGE vertical dike that is lighter colored than the rest of the rock wall.  

Location

Get the guidebook! The guidebook lists the mileage from certain geographical markers, but park west of the campground and east of the end of the road and walk straight north to the base of the route. You should be able to see the top pitches of the route from the road, then find a good place to park.

Protection

Ice screws all the way with v threads all the way down, please use existing when possible.

Note: First pitch has a bolted anchor. 

Photos