Elevation: 6,234 ft
GPS: 44.209, -109.555 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 84,403 total · 478/month
Shared By: Alan Searcy on Jan 25, 2006 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description

Secluded valley southwest of Cody with the Shoshone River running through it. No phones, no lights, occasionally motorcars. A definite alpine feel with a variety of grades to climb. Many times the approach is the crux of the route. Bands of harder horizontal stone provide benches for ice to form on. Much of the rock is crap, referred to by locals as "kitty litter". Rock gear is a waste to carry in most cases, although bugs and angles can be helpful if you're putting up something mixed and you need a mental piece or something that may hold bodyweight. As a rule "V" threads are the preferred method for descent, occasionally bolts or a slung tree. Typical ice climbs may be 100m to 300m (or longer) in length interrupted by steps of creek walking between pitches.

Getting There

From Cody take Hwy 291 (South Fork Road) to the South Fork, about 45 minutes. Bison Willy's at the mouth of the Canyon is no longer an option for sleeping closer to the ice. Hotel it in town or sleep in the dirt at the Deer Creek Campground a couple of miles into the canyon.

Check out Cold Fear for details on current conditions and lodging. For route info, get your hands on the old Cozzens guide or the new Winter Dance book (Joe Josephson) with all the details.

Accomodations

A great place to stay to climb Cody/Southfork Ice is the Double Diamond X Ranch. It's located 40 miles from Cody and only 2-3 miles from the ice, and is the only facility out there. Staying at DDX Ranch not only reduces the commute but reduces your chances of nailing one of thousands of deer, skidding off the road, falling asleep at the wheel after a long day, driving to or from town in the dark, and maybe getting a DUI. ddxranchwyoming.com
Their bunkhouse has 2 rooms that each have, table, chairs, refrigerator, microwave, toaster oven, hot plate, and 2 each showers, sinks, toilets. Beds are covered single beds, so bring your own sleeping bag.
This used to be an AAC Hut, but the new owners give 10% off to AAC members on the $39/nite rate.

50 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Fork Shoshone (Ice)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
 47
Mean Green
Trad, Ice, Alpine 7 pitches
WI5
 25
Moonrise
Trad, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI4
 35
The Moratorium
Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
WI4
 47
High on Boulder
Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI5-6
 42
Broken Hearts
Ice, Alpine 9 pitches
WI3 Mod. Snow
 21
Stringer
Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
WI3+
 36
Bozo's Revenge
Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI3+
 31
The Main Vein
Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
WI4
 29
Cabin Fever
Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI5
 11
The Pillar of Pain
Ice, Alpine
WI4+
 19
Spyin' 'n Flyin'
Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
WI5+
 10
Bitches Brew
Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
WI4
 18
Sendero Illuminoso
Ice, Alpine
WI5
 13
Ice Fest
Ice, Alpine
WI5+
 18
Joy After Pain
Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mean Green
 47
WI5 Trad, Ice, Alpine 7 pitches
Moonrise
 25
WI5 Trad, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
The Moratorium
 35
WI4 Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
High on Boulder
 47
WI4 Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Broken Hearts
 42
WI5-6 Ice, Alpine 9 pitches
Stringer
 21
WI3 Mod. Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Bozo's Revenge
 36
WI3+ Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
The Main Vein
 31
WI3+ Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Cabin Fever
 29
WI4 Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
The Pillar of Pain
 11
WI5 Ice, Alpine
Spyin' 'n Flyin'
 19
WI4+ Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Bitches Brew
 10
WI5+ Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Sendero Illuminoso
 18
WI4 Ice, Alpine
Ice Fest
 13
WI5 Ice, Alpine
Joy After Pain
 18
WI5+ Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
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