Type: Ice, Alpine, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Jim Montgomery and Ric Miller, 1986
Page Views: 110 total · 13/month
Shared By: Marlin Thorman on Feb 7, 2020
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description

This climb hangs onto the left wall on the way up Dental Floss.  It is the 2nd climb on the left with the 1st one being Too Much Goose.  The climb itself starts out relatively thin and gets thicker once you get higher up.  It is steep climbing without many rest breaks.  The ice can reportedly be a bit funky at the top but when we climbed it in 2020 it was straightforward although thin chandeliers on the right.  The climb faces almost due east so the ice itself sees very little sun.  This means it doesn't get sun baked like many of the other climbs on this side of the valley.

Location

This climb lies in the Dental Floss drainage.  Park alongside the road and hike across the valley to the mouth of the drainage.  Sometime soon you will have to put on crampons and start hiking up the ice.  There are lots of small little steps and numerous longer low angled flows as well.  After about 15-20 minutes of hiking up the ice you should see Too Much Goose on the left (if formed).  Continue up the main drainage for another 10-15 minutes which should put you at the start of a deep chimney feature.  Witched Woman is on the chimney wall on the left just prior to it getting narrow.  In all the approach takes about an hour and ascends almost 1500 feet of elevation gain from the car.

Protection

Ice screws

Photos

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