Desperate for Lovin' [Suggest Change]
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Ice, Alpine, 350 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Mark DeVries & partner. 1997.|
|Page Views:||829 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Julian Smith on Feb 16, 2009|
Description [Suggest Change]
Desperate for Lovin is an awesome route; and with one of the shortest, easiest approaches on the South Fork thrown in too! This is a true gem for a shorter day out, or it can easily be combined with Stringer for a longer day. It consists of 2 to 3 pitches that are quite attractive. The first pitch consists of some tight climbing out of a chimney which leads to a nice pillar, which can be thin, and might include some rock moves at the top in order to clear a bulge. If the first pitch is not in, the rest of the route is not worth doing. From the top of the first pitch, continue up the gully for a couple of hundred feet past some ice bulges and chock-stones to reach the upper section of the route, which is a short, steep step followed by a flat section leading to the final curtain. The curtain is worth going to the top of the route for, though it might be better to break this section into 2 pitches. Look for a tree to the left of the top of the final curtain to rappel from, though this tree can be kind of a pain to get to. Look out for pulling rocks down on top of yourself when pulling ropes from the tree. You will probably want to have 2 ropes in order to clear both the curtain and the step below it. From the top of the first pitch, use a V-thread for a rappel. This might be a difficult anchor to get in if the ice is thin. Joe Josephsons Winter Dance also makes reference to a possible walk-off from the top of the first pitch. Look for a slope above a constriction in the drainage above the first pitch, and traverse right (east towards the road) across the slope, apparently following some game trails back down some obscure ledges; follow the trail of poop!
Location [Suggest Change]
Park approximately 1.6 miles past the Ishawooa Mesa trail. Start hiking across the sage prairie aiming for the obvious drainage. You can see the top of the second/third pitch clearly from the road, and the first pitch too if you know where to look. Just as you enter the drainage itself, look for a way to walk uphill to the left of the drainage in order to reach the base of the route.
Protection [Suggest Change]
2 ropes and a rack of screws are all that are needed for the climb; you might want to bring some webbing for the rappels.