Type: Ice, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: Todd Cozzens, Jeff Cristol, 1992.
Page Views: 1,109 total · 22/month
Shared By: Marlin Thorman on Feb 7, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Jim Clarke, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

This is a fun 3 pitch climb with lots of easy ice to a final WI4 pitch.  As typical with many South Fork climbs this one follows a deep slot in the rock making for some cool aesthetics.  We found the 1st pitch to be about 30m long and easy WI3.  There are several small bulges and steps between pitches 1 and 2.  The 2nd pitch was short and very easy into the bowl where the 3rd pitch lies.  The final pitch 3 climbs steep ice out of a rock amphitheater that is very cool.  There is reported to be some ice above but all we found were short lower angle steps.  Maybe there is more if you keep going up.

Location Suggest change

From the parking lot at the end of the road hike the trail that skirts the ranch and goes down to the river.  Instead of crossing the river continue to follow the faint trail through the riverbed hugging the north bank.  After 5-10 minutes you'll notice a slight bench above the river instead of just a hillside.  If you look above this bench landmark there are 2 drainages that come down from above.  One comes down from the right (Smoked Turkey) and Grandma's Chicken is on the left.  Both of them meet up just about the time they hit his bench.  Some people recommending traversing this bench to get to the climbs but we found that if you just follow the stream bed up from the main river it had the easiest walking.  Either way at where the bench ends and the 2 drainages fork you want the left fork.  Walk up this for 5 minutes to the base of the first pitch.  Total approach time is about 1 hour.

Base of the climb is at 44.1102 N, -109.6440 W.

Protection Suggest change

Ice screws