Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Alex Lowe & Todd Cozzens as a Mixed line
Page Views: 284 total · 30/month
Shared By: J J on Jan 11, 2020
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description

Carotid Artery is the left hand line found in the large bowl that contains the 5th pitch of Broken Hearts, otherwise known as the "My only Valentine" pitch.  Carotid can either be totally dry and goes at M7 (so they say) on gear, or fat ice as easy as WI5, yah don't know until you go and find out!

Although this pitch is the money pitch, there is a bonus pitch found above in a deep slot canyon.  Climb a short step of WI2+ ice then walk uphill another 5 minutes to the base of the slot.  A very "none cody esque" WI3 pitch is found deep in the slot that is super fun and worth the extra mileage.  Belay above off ice, or much further back to trees above on the right.  

On top of this pitch, there is a large fin of rock that splits the couloir.  The left couloir holds another short bonus pitch of ice, and the right couloir only holds steep snow.

Location

The 5th pitch bowl of Broken Hearts.  Either climb the first 4 pitches of BH, or do the walk off backwards and walk into the bowl from below avoiding the ice altogether (this is good for when the third pitch is melted out).

Protection

Either a Full rack of gear and pound-ins or screw.

Photos

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