Route just came in and touched down week of V-day. It was a bit lucently thin in spots but worth the challenge. Usually comes in mid-to-late season and quite fat. Used to be WI5 - M7 but roof has since fallen thus (trivia alert) climb sometimes referred to as 'Hostile Makeover'. Area known for high winds which will bring down the temps in this gully quite a few notches. Recommend to do on NON-WINDY day (if possible). Another great classic with the approach to match.
To the left up Triptych Drainage on the north side of the Valley. Park off the road close to the Valley Ranch mailbox. Route can be rapped - 1 rope, bolts at top. Walk-off (east) possible but rap will get you to happyhour much sooner.
Short to mid-length screws -- Single pt crampons add xtra grip for early-season thin lacy-ice traction (beta c/o Aaron-ColdFear)