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Hostile Takeover

WI4+, Ice, Alpine, 80 ft (24 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.2 from 13 votes
FA: Stan Price, Charlie McDuff, 1992
Wyoming > Cody > S Fork Shoshone… > N Side Routes/S Facin…

Description

Route just came in and touched down week of V-day. It was a bit lucently thin in spots but worth the challenge. Usually comes in mid-to-late season and quite fat. Used to be WI5 - M7 but roof has since fallen thus (trivia alert) climb sometimes referred to as 'Hostile Makeover'. Area known for high winds which will bring down the temps in this gully quite a few notches. Recommend to do on NON-WINDY day (if possible). Another great classic with the approach to match.

Location

To the left up Triptych Drainage on the north side of the Valley. Park off the road close to the Valley Ranch mailbox. Route can be rapped - 1 rope, bolts at top. Walk-off (east) possible but rap will get you to happyhour much sooner.

Protection

Short to mid-length screws -- Single pt crampons add xtra grip for early-season thin lacy-ice traction (beta c/o Aaron-ColdFear)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hostel Takeover (left) from the ridge. A melted out Highschool Squids is up and right.
[Hide Photo] Hostel Takeover (left) from the ridge. A melted out Highschool Squids is up and right.
First pitch was thin when we climbed it.
[Hide Photo] First pitch was thin when we climbed it.
First pitch. Dec 2010
[Hide Photo] First pitch. Dec 2010
Looking down the second pitch. Dec 2010
[Hide Photo] Looking down the second pitch. Dec 2010
Suiting up in chains for the FINAL approach - 2,10ft sections of Ice separated by 80ft. ice ramp. Hostile T is at the far back of this gully.
[Hide Photo] Suiting up in chains for the FINAL approach - 2,10ft sections of Ice separated by 80ft. ice ramp. Hostile T is at the far back of this gully.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MauryB
Boulder, CO
  WI4+
[Hide Comment] This route is actually 80 METERS, there are only bolts atop the 1st pitch. There is a tree rap anchor above the finish that would require double ropes, or you can v thread right at the top out to rap with a single 80. Mar 18, 2022