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World Wall
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Black Ice 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,936
Submitted By: Ryan Triplett on Mar 13, 2006

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Description 

Hands down, one of the contenders for the best route at World Wall I! Initial cruxes include the technicalities of Propaganda (.12c). From the anchors of Propaganda, tackle the bouldery bulge that leads up and trough a small and techy dihedral. Don't blow the clip at the top of this corner, as this will equate to BIG AIR. Continue through easier, yet big moves to a rest. Get the heart rate down, for the next 25ft is a pumpfest leading all the way to anchors, which are closely guarded by a sloppy rail.


Location 

Climbs the obvious and direct line up the left side of the wall following the black water streak. Start as for Propaganda and climb it in its entirety. Continue straight up for all the meat and spuds.


Protection 

This route is fixed beyond Propaganda proper.



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By jonah
Mar 13, 2006

Killer pictures. Props to Ben.

By kimmo
Sep 5, 2008

start with Gerbil Killer and make it a little harder.
start with Bust a Move and make it a little easier.
Traverse in after the crux of Whore of Babylon and make it harder yet.

Sure, why not?

By Ol' Toby
From: WA
Jun 13, 2014

Great long pitch with fun powerful sequences that keep the pump going til the bitter end. Full 70M needed if belaying from the main ledge; tie a stopper knot!