Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Leland Windham, Bryan Burdo
Page Views: 4,120 total · 44/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Aug 7, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


47 Opinions

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Description

Easy 5.10 climbing leads up to the business--a tough, reachy undercling move to the "horn of plenty" and then some tough moves to gain the vertical finish.

Location

On the left end of World Wall, left of the Slug Lover dihedral. Just left of Sweet Tooth.

Protection

Guidebook says 15 bolts. I think it was a couple fewer than that.

Photos

gregman
 
gregman  
 
Quite fun alternative to the other 11b routes. Very different and with a distinct crux sequence. Don't stop paying attention after you've made it above the horn, the sequence is balance-y and has a few options...the fall risk isn't over :)

Definitely more like 12 bolts than 15, with fixed gear at the top for lowering, but use your own gear for TR. You can clean this on lower, and it's no more difficult than the other overhanging routes earlier on the wall, but it'd probably be easiest with a follower. Sep 4, 2015
Eric S
Boulder, CO/ Tacoma Washington
 
Eric S   Boulder, CO/ Tacoma Washington
 
It is 12 to the first anchor, 15, all the way to the top I believe. Sep 14, 2015
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
 
I felt like coming to the horn from the left with high feet was much easier than thru the undercling. Sep 10, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
New stainless bolts to the commonly climbed first anchor placed fall of 17.
Equipped with steel draws August 18.

Really fun route, boulder sequence to the horn is rad and stays interesting afterward. Nice to get some footwork and smearing on the finish (the rock over here actually has friction!). Probably a better intro to the grade than psycho or abo as there are no hard moves low on the route. Nice clean falls. Aug 20, 2018