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Routes in World Wall

Aborigine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
BLM-3 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
BLM-4 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
BLM-5 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
BLM-6 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
BLM-7 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
BLM-8 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bad Guy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Ice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Black Is All We Feel T,S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bust the Move S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bust the Rhythm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Californication S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Californicator S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chicxulub S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Chronic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dairy Freeze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Deluge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Devil's Advocate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Disincarnate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dr. Evil S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Dreaming of a Life of Ease S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the World S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Enigma S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Extended Evil S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Extendorigine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
False Idol S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flatliner S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Gerbil Killer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Girls in the Gym S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hang It Out To Dry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hydrophobia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Illness/Extended Illness S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Jealous God S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jug or Not S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard King S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lost Horizons S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Megatherion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oedipal Complex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Opening Act S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oval Orifice S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pornification S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Pornstar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Propaganda S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Psycho Wussy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psychosomatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rainy Day Woman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Reptiles and Amphetamines S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slaborigine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slug Lover S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Son of Jesus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet Tooth S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Technorigine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Viagro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vudu Guru S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wide World of Fitness S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Leland Windham, Bryan Burdo
Page Views: 3,599 total · 43/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Aug 7, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Easy 5.10 climbing leads up to the business--a tough, reachy undercling move to the "horn of plenty" and then some tough moves to gain the vertical finish.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the left end of World Wall, left of the Slug Lover dihedral. Just left of Sweet Tooth.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Guidebook says 15 bolts. I think it was a couple fewer than that.

Photos

gregman
 
gregman  
 
Quite fun alternative to the other 11b routes. Very different and with a distinct crux sequence. Don't stop paying attention after you've made it above the horn, the sequence is balance-y and has a few options...the fall risk isn't over :)

Definitely more like 12 bolts than 15, with fixed gear at the top for lowering, but use your own gear for TR. You can clean this on lower, and it's no more difficult than the other overhanging routes earlier on the wall, but it'd probably be easiest with a follower. Sep 4, 2015
Eric Stern
Boulder, CO/ Tacoma Washington
 
Eric Stern   Boulder, CO/ Tacoma Washington
 
It is 12 to the first anchor, 15, all the way to the top I believe. Sep 14, 2015
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
Really fun route, boulder sequence to the horn is rad and stays interesting afterward. Nice to get some footwork and smearing on the finish (the rock over here actually has friction!). Probably a better intro to the grade than psycho or abo as there are no hard moves low on the route. Nice clean falls.

Use longer draws (I extended alpine draws) on bolts 4-6 for a straighter rope run up to the horn. Makes for a softer catch if you fall above the horn, I know. Dec 29, 2016
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
 
I felt like coming to the horn from the left with high feet was much easier than thru the undercling. Sep 10, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
New stainless bolts to the commonly climbed first anchor placed fall of 2017. Nov 21, 2017

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