Type: Sport, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: Prep Erik Kubiak | FFA Bryan Burdo (1991)
Page Views: 8,897 total · 40/month
Shared By: jonah on Mar 13, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The obvious line with fixed draws immediately left of Reptiles. There is always someone on this, and it's a great climb to play around on during after-work sessions.

Starts with 2 bolts of 5.9 (don't fall or you and your belayer will be really unhappy). Then the business starts with a funky undercling/mini-dihedral section on slick, techy feet. 3 more clips takes you to an OK rest on the keyboard (Californicator branches left here). Straight up on small crimps and gastons takes you up to the roof and a shake. Finishes by pulling the roof on OK crimps and up to a burly gaston move that sets you up for clipping the anchor. The redpoint crux is redpointing the beast (which I haven't).

Protection Suggest change

11 clips. A 60 will get you down, but a 70 is better for peace of mind. You will be in space way out from the ledge when you lower, so push off the tree to get back in.

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