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Routes in World Wall

Aborigine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
BLM-3 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
BLM-4 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
BLM-5 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
BLM-6 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
BLM-7 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
BLM-8 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bad Guy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Ice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Black Is All We Feel T,S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bust the Move S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bust the Rhythm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Californication S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Californicator S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chicxulub S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Chronic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dairy Freeze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Deluge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Devil's Advocate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Disincarnate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dr. Evil S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Dreaming of a Life of Ease S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the World S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Enigma S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Extended Evil S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Extendorigine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
False Idol S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flatliner S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Gerbil Killer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Girls in the Gym S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hang It Out To Dry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hydrophobia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Illness/Extended Illness S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Jealous God S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jug or Not S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard King S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lost Horizons S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Megatherion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oedipal Complex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Opening Act S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oval Orifice S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pornification S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Pornstar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Propaganda S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Psycho Wussy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psychosomatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rainy Day Woman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Reptiles and Amphetamines S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slaborigine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slug Lover S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Son of Jesus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet Tooth S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Technorigine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Viagro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vudu Guru S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wide World of Fitness S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,931 total, 27/month
Shared By: jonah on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The obvious line with fixed draws immediately left of Reptiles. There is always someone on this, and it's a great climb to play around on during after-work sessions.

Starts with 2 bolts of 5.9 (don't fall or you and your belayer will be really unhappy). Then the business starts with a funky undercling/mini-dihedral section on slick, techy feet. 3 more clips takes you to an OK rest on the keyboard (Californicator branches left here). Straight up on small crimps and gastons takes you up to the roof and a shake. Finishes by pulling the roof on OK crimps and up to a burly gaston move that sets you up for clipping the anchor. The redpoint crux is redpointing the beast (which I haven't).

Protection

11 clips. A 60 will get you down, but a 70 is better for peace of mind. You will be in space way out from the ledge when you lower, so push off the tree to get back in.

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Please please please!!! Someone do the community a service and rebolt this route!!! This has to be one of the best routes in the pacific NW. There's a mix of shitty rusted old bolts on this thing. They all need to be chopped and replaced. There are some very old 3/8 inch non stainless on it that I'm sure have taken many Falls. Highly suggest half inch 5 piece stainless Rawl bolts. Or even better half inch glue in bolts. This Crag gets way too much moisture for anything other than stainless . I'd do it myself if I was hanging around for more than just a weekend. Aug 12, 2017
Drewsky  
I'll just go ahead and post that tale, based solely on hearsay and rumor. What I heard is that Erik Kubiak originally bolted Chronic as we know it today with potentially fewer bolts. Legend has it that Bryan Burdo added some bolts and freed it to below the final redpoint crux above the roof. I'm not sure whether it had already been redpointed by Erik or not. Either not wanting or not able to free the rest, Bryan doubled the bolt below the roof, moving the anchor lower and calling the route .13b. Then, what I heard is that Erik reestablished the route to its original finish and d-d-d-d-downgraded the rig to .13a! But we all know it's .13b, y'know? Now correct my info if I'm wrong! This should be fun. Aug 24, 2015
The FFA history on this, including all the drama and anchor transplantation would be nice here. Aug 24, 2015
Drewsky  
The clipping jug for the first bolt continues to look more and more suspect (toaster sized piece of rock cracked ALL the way through). Definitely clip into the belay bolt until your climber has a few draws clipped! Aug 13, 2012
Unless you clip the belay bolt :) Jul 17, 2006
jonah
 
jonah  
 
I noticed yesterday that the jug you clip the first bolt from is loose. If this thing ever breaks, you and your belayer are screwed, so heads up. Jul 6, 2006