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Routes in World Wall

Aborigine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
BLM-3 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
BLM-4 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
BLM-5 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
BLM-6 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
BLM-7 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
BLM-8 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bad Guy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Ice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Black Is All We Feel T,S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bust the Move S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bust the Rhythm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Californication S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Californicator S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chicxulub S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Chronic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dairy Freeze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Deluge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Devil's Advocate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Disincarnate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dr. Evil S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Dreaming of a Life of Ease S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the World S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Enigma S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Extended Evil S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Extendorigine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
False Idol S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flatliner S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Gerbil Killer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Girls in the Gym S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hang It Out To Dry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hydrophobia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Illness/Extended Illness S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Jealous God S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jug or Not S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard King S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lost Horizons S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Megatherion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oedipal Complex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Opening Act S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oval Orifice S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pornification S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Pornstar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Propaganda S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Psycho Wussy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psychosomatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rainy Day Woman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Reptiles and Amphetamines S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slaborigine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slug Lover S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Son of Jesus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet Tooth S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Technorigine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Viagro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vudu Guru S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wide World of Fitness S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Erik Kubiak and Tyson Schoene (I think)
Page Views: 303 total · 3/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jul 15, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

This surprisingly good route has some of the smallest holds I've pulled on at Little Si-and some of the strangest bolt locations, at least at the beginning. Extended crux sequence with some pretty tough moves leads to airy moves over a roof and then to an anchor. The slick 5.10 runout that used to guard the start has since been tamed with another bolt.

Location

Up from the main section of the wall is a shorter section of wall. This route begins just left of The Bad Guy, a 5.11b/c that starts at a single ring bolt anchor. It climbs past a bolt and then an obvious left facing feature at its start.

Protection

Bolts. The first and second bolts are oddly located (lower than they should be). The anchors used to be just bolts with hangers; it is possible to traverse left to chains on Scott's Dairy Freeze and with some shenanigans clean the other anchor. Chains would probably be a nice addition if they haven't been added already.

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Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
I've heard this route has been rebolted but haven't actually verified this. If so, it should be a worthy addition anyone's low 5.13 ticklist at World Wall. Sep 2, 2013
Yes, Jonah retro bolted the start. So now, it is safer and doesn't require a rack of one piece. Thanks Jonah! A neglected classic. Hard 13a. Jan 30, 2014
Thune
  5.13a
Thune  
  5.13a
The anchor is now equipped with chains and biners. Thanks Jonah for adding the bolts at the start! Really fun sequence to get over the roof. Felt V7ish to me. Jul 15, 2014

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