Psycho Wussy
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Bryan Burdo (1993) |
Page Views: | 4,371 total · 41/month |
Shared By: | Jack Waeschle on Aug 13, 2016 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
The first part of "Psychosomatic", this pitch goes straight up the center of the main section of World Wall. It ends at the first two bolt anchor before the angle gets steeper. Great route that is straightforward and consistent difficulty. Be prepared to wait in line for this ultra class warm-up with several excellent extensions. Popular with 5.11, 5.12, 5.13, and 5.14 climbers alike
A balancey, crimpy start with a high bolt leads up to the large ledge 15’ above. Place your feet carefully, don’t fall, and make sure your belayer has the ground anchor clipped to avoid catastrophe. Big moves, big holds, and big rests continue for another 40 feet.
The route used to start on a large block that you could clip the first bolt off of. The block slid out from under itself one winter and was hacked to pieces to make the cobble flooring now covering the Ledge. The start of the route is now a little harder and a little higher consequence, but the grade has comfortably stayed the same. Use the ground anchor!
Location
Starts in the middle of the main wall, midway between Aborigine and Propaganda. A single-bolt ground anchor usually with a fixed static line and a small tree growing on the edge of the belay Ledge help mark the route.
This is the start to “Psychosomatic” (12d), “Flatliner” (13c), “Lost Horizons” (14b), and “Chicxulub” (14a)
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