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Psycho Wussy
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 117
votes
Routes in World Wall
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[E] Black Ice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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[E] Bust the Rhythm S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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[E] Californication S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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[E] Californicator S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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[E] Chicxulub S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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[E] Deluge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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[E] Dread Lock S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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[E] End of the World S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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[E] Extended Illness S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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[E] Extendorigine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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[E] Flatliner S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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[E] Hydrophobia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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[E] Lizard King S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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[E] Lizard Prince S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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[E] Lizard Queen S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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[E] Lost Horizons S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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[E] Oval Orifice S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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[E] PC-7 (Judgement Day Direct) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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[E] Pornstar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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[E] Psychosomatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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[E] Sinistral Purpose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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[E] Skipping the Goods S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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[E] Technorigine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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[E] The Crack S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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[E] Totally Spent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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[E] Vudu Guru S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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[L] Brave New World S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c |
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[L] Event Horizon S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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[L] Extended Evil S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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[L] Hangin' in the Gym S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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[L] New World Order S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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[L] Pornification S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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[L] Slaborigine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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[L] Vanilla Ice S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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[L] Viagrophobia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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[L] Wide World of Fitness S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Aborigine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bad Guy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Is All We Feel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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BLM-3 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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BLM-6 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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BLM-7 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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BLM-8 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bust the Move S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chronic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Dairy Freeze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Devil's Advocate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Disincarnate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dr. Evil S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Dreaming of a Life of Ease S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Enigma S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Gerbil Killer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Gerbil Lives S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Girls in the Gym S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Graven Image S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hadley's Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hang It Out To Dry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Insinuation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jealous God S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jug or Not S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Megatherion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oedipal Complex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Opening Act S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Propaganda S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Psycho Wussy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rainy Day Women S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Reptiles and Amphetamines S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slug Lover S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Son of Jesus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Spent S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sweet Tooth S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Universe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Viagro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Whore of Babylon S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Xx -False Idol S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Bryan Burdo (1993) |
| Page Views: | 4,371 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Jack Waeschle on Aug 13, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
The first part of "Psychosomatic", this pitch goes straight up the center of the main section of World Wall. It ends at the first two bolt anchor before the angle gets steeper. Great route that is straightforward and consistent difficulty. Be prepared to wait in line for this ultra class warm-up with several excellent extensions. Popular with 5.11, 5.12, 5.13, and 5.14 climbers alike
A balancey, crimpy start with a high bolt leads up to the large ledge 15’ above. Place your feet carefully, don’t fall, and make sure your belayer has the ground anchor clipped to avoid catastrophe. Big moves, big holds, and big rests continue for another 40 feet.
The route used to start on a large block that you could clip the first bolt off of. The block slid out from under itself one winter and was hacked to pieces to make the cobble flooring now covering the Ledge. The start of the route is now a little harder and a little higher consequence, but the grade has comfortably stayed the same. Use the ground anchor!
Location
Starts in the middle of the main wall, midway between Aborigine and Propaganda. A single-bolt ground anchor usually with a fixed static line and a small tree growing on the edge of the belay Ledge help mark the route.
This is the start to “Psychosomatic” (12d), “Flatliner” (13c), “Lost Horizons” (14b), and “Chicxulub” (14a)
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