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The Ventral Fin
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British A2-3
Avg: 3.1 from 7
votes
Routes in Upper Fin
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Dark Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Dorsal Fin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fin Arete, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Finagle Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Fins and Needles T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gills, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hook, Line and Sinker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lateral Fin, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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License To Poach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ventral Fin, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3 |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 40.57399, -111.76119 |
| FA: | Smoot Bros. 1982 |
| Page Views: | 2,566 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Stevie Nacho on Jun 28, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The cruxes to this route are following the second pitch and the lasso at the beginning of the fourth. Each pitch is fairly short, yet have great features and moves. The nailing is straightforward and cams appear every couple of placements. The third pitch gets thin, with multiple tied off blades. Every belay has new (2009) bolts along with every lead bolt.
Location
This route is located on the right side of the fin high above Altered States Gully. Approach as for the Dorsal Fin, then do a 5.6 pitch which angles up then right for a full rope length. Some simi-climbing is needed to reach the chain anchor for The Gills. The first pitch starts to the left (west) of the chain anchor. This is the short bulge crack (8') that traverses left (west) to a bush.
Protection
-One set of hand sized cams (Black diamond .75-3)
-Two sets of t.c.u.'s (Metolius purple, blue, yellow)
-One orange metolius cam, One red metolius cam.
-One set of HB Brass off-sets.
-Some medium stoppers.
-An assortment of blades, (we used about ten)
-An assortment of lost arrows (we used about six)
-A few beaks or Rurps (we used two beaks)
-Bunches of slings
-A copy of the topo
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