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Clifton Crags

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Big Chick Hill 
Eagle Bluff 
Fletchers Bluff 
Parks Pond Bluff 
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Clifton Crags Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.80612, -68.5403 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 29,239
Administrators: BDalhaus, Ladd, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Oct 5, 2008
Forecast:
Today

37° | 23°
Friday

30° | 12°
Saturday

22° | 11°
Sunday

24° | 19°
Monday

31° | 23°
Tuesday

30° | 17°
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Description 

The town of Clifton is nestled in the rolling hills just east of Bangor & is home to some of the finest crags in the state. Travelling climbers don't tend to stop in on their way to Acadia, so the Clifton area remains a sort of local secret. Rock is scattered across the map in a swath running from Aurora down through Dedham and beyond. On a good day, the peaks of Chick Hill and Fletcher's Bluff are visible in the distance from the west and make up two of the four main roped climbing areas with the other two being Parks Pond and Eagle's Bluff. Alongside the cliffs are also a number of bouldering areas, some with excellent access and some with serious issues.

Those who enjoy climbing on balancy holds and tweaky, tip numbing edges will find plenty to do as Clifton is the home to nearly a dozen crags.

Climbers with fingers of steel and precise footwork will be attracted to Clifton.

Getting There 

The Clifton crags are located about 20 minutes east of Bangor. All the crags (except for eagle bluff) are located off of rt. 9. Eagle bluff is off of 180

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.3 miles from here

102 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',39],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',6],['5.8',10],['5.9',17],['5.10',25],['5.11',22],['5.12',11],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Clifton Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Clifton Crags:
My Time   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 175'   Big Chick Hill : Main Face
Craig's Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   Parks Pond Bluff : Main Face
Upside down staircase   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Eagle Bluff
Slice of the Gunks   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Eagle Bluff
Riders Of the Storm   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Parks Pond Bluff : Mushroom Wall
Overnite Sensation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   Big Chick Hill : Main Face
Witch Wonder   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   Eagle Bluff
Walk on the Mild Side   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   Eagle Bluff
Bivy Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Eagle Bluff
Son of a Birch   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Big Chick Hill : Tower Buttress and Face
Crankcase   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Eagle Bluff
Happy Face   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Eagle Bluff
Wheaties   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Eagle Bluff
The Eagle's Gift   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Eagle Bluff
highlander   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 165'   Eagle Bluff
All seriousness aside    5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Eagle Bluff
Chinese Water Torture Direct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Eagle Bluff
Blaze of Glory   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Eagle Bluff
Entrance Exam   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Eagle Bluff
Eagle Direct   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Eagle Bluff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Clifton Crags

Featured Route For Clifton Crags
Rock Climbing Photo: At first bolt.

The Perfect Time 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13  ME : Clifton Crags : ... : Maple Run Wall
Bouldery route. Technical moves off the ground leading to a hands free stance. From there sustained overhanging moves. Leads to very powerful ending moves after last bolt and before anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Comments on Clifton Crags Add Comment
Show which comments
By matt.maine
From: raymond, maine
Oct 8, 2008
a great place to get away just not during bug season
if you spend any time there get the guide to Clifton by Jon Tierney
By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Apr 12, 2009
Anyone know anything about the cliff over by fletchers? Its a mile or so before fletchers off one of the side logging roads. It looks very vertical, and may have potential for some nice lines.
By hasan
From: portland,me
Jul 12, 2010
If you mean Sundog wall. It is vertical to slightly overhanging. Except for 1 chossy line, they are all well equipped sport routes. It's in the guidebook.
By Peter Dodge
From: Duluth, MN
Aug 9, 2010
Where can you get the guidebook?
By Cam Gould
Aug 14, 2010
Peter, you can get the guidebook from Alpenglow Adventure Sports/Acadia Mountain Guides at 92 Main St., Orono or 228 Main St., Bar Harbor. Also online at alpenglowgear.com.
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Mar 25, 2011
Don Nelligan rocks!

If you don't know who I'm talking about then you haven't climbed at Clifton.
By Jonathan Steitzer
From: midcoast, maine
Jul 23, 2013
RIP Don
By DubDub
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 19, 2016
Where can I camp around Clifton Crags, approximately July 4 through 8?
Also seeking partners: mountainproject.com/v/maine-ca...
By zwms
Sep 10, 2016
Anyone have thoughts on the best of these crags for a few hours of afternoon TR? I am confident leader up to 11+, but going with a friend who has never belayed a leader before. Might feel okay to run some 6/7 stuff if that would help to set TR anchors. Also - any beta on climbing the day after a little rain?