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Routes in Main Face

Dazed and Confused T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Leading Colors S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Maine Line, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
My Time T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Overnite Sensation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Vacationland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 175 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,675 total, 16/month
Shared By: Matt Swartz on Apr 22, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

A Clifton classic! Make time for My Time - especially for the new leader, a really fun climb.

P1: Follow the ramp up the corner to its top and more right to a left facing flake. This part is a little run out but just remember, its only 5.5 Layback the flake to a ledge then traverse straight right around bulge (crux) to a pin belay.

P2: Move out to the right following the dike on Ben's Balls (remember to protect your second). Just before the pine tree, step up left past a bolt to a two bolt anchor on a ramp.

P3: Move slightly left up to pin then trend up and right past three more bolts to a chained bolt anchor. Third class up and left to summit, walk off to trail on the right or rappel with two ropes.

This route has a lot of potential for practicing rescue techniques due to a solid belay ledge (pitch 2) with a bomber anchor. Have fun on this one, its awesome.

Location

A large boulder sits to the left of the ramp. Start at this obvious ramp between Vacationland and Ben's Balls.

Protection

Nuts and small cams to protect the bottom, draws for bolts.

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Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
4 Stars for the first pitch. Classic well-protect 5.fun climbing.

Instead of doing the second pitch dike, which looked very grown-in, we followed the bolted line straight up from the first pitch anchors. It went at 5.8 or 5.9 and we were then able to finish on an adventurous 3rd pitch that was 5.5-5.6 and not well-protected. May 29, 2017
jim.dangle
  5.5 R
jim.dangle  
  5.5 R
The first two pitches are nice but route finding is definitely an issue on the 3rd pitch. Once you get above the ramp you are looking at a sea of fairly dense bolt-shaped lichen and there are no anchors in sight. I clipped a really old pin (the one mentioned in the book?) in the first shelf just above the belay then headed straight up and maybe slightly right (as described in the book) hoping the route would appear. About maybe 30-40 feet up I finally saw the gleam of a bolt but it seemed much further left than expected so I ended up running it out toward the tree over the hump by traversing right and then heading up. The angle is low and the climbing is not hard but all the lichen makes the footing uncertain places and there is no real protection for that variation. So all in all the climb kind of disappears into the lichen after the 2nd pitch and seems a little contrived. I wouldn’t recommend the third pitch unless someone knows the right way up (or is really into runout lichen pinching).

One other note: the hornet’s nest a friendly climber warned us had been in the tree near the end of the 1st pitch appears to be gone.

Great view though. Sep 19, 2011