|Type:||Ice, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II|
|Submitted By:||J. Albers on Jan 5, 2010|
|Comments on Chouinard's Gully||Add Comment|
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By Jeff Crawford
Jan 24, 2017
|Despite warm temps, the route is in good climbing condition as of 23 January 2017. It took 19cm screws throughout the entire route. If you want to use the trees as an anchor for pitch one, please be careful as the ice is very thin both below and above the first tree with rappel rings tied around it. The main route ice in the center and right of the tree with rappel rings is still thick. I was able to complete the route in 2 pitches with a 70m rope. The descent can be completed in 2 rappels with 2 70m ropes tied together.|
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Feb 2, 2011
|A single 70m rope will get you to the base of the climb in three rappels.|
By Ross Purnell
Dec 11, 2013
|Please don't rap the route. This is a classic, busy route. No one wants people dropping bombs from above. There is a very easy walk-off to the left that brings you down near the base of Crystal Ice Tower.|
By J. Albers
Jan 27, 2014
In general I agree with your sentiment, which is why in my description of the two descent options I stated that folks should use good judgement when deciding whether to rappel or walk off. That said, when I did the route, we were the only ones on the route going either up or down. Given that it is entirely obvious whether there are parties below you (or if there will be in the near future...i.e. folks crossing the lake), then if nobody is around it is just fine to rap the route. In short, good judgement is a better option than strict rules on what is okay or not.
From: Albany, NY
Mar 2, 2014
Depending where your belayer stands on the first pitch, it's easiest to reach the belay at the top of the first pitch using a 70 meter rope. That 70 meter rope will get you to the lower of two belay stations on the left. From that lower set of anchors the next pitch is about 50 meters. Having twin 70s will also let you reach the bottom for your 2nd rap (assuming you don't walk off).
We walked off the top (to the climber's left) but the tramped down path ended in a full rappel (using double 60 meter ropes). I think we went down too soon and should have kept angling to the climbers left.
Note, there's a sketchy part just into the start of the walk off. You have to cross a steep gully (which had some hard ice in the middle and a couple large boulders with verglas). A slip while crossing the gully will send you quite a ways down. You might want a rope while crossing (depending on the skill of those in your party).
BTW, it is mostly WI2 with a short section of WI3 one third up the first pitch. In mid to late season, it's like a ladder with tons of ice tool holes to place your pick into (and stair like steps for foot holds). Lots of hands free rests for placing screws. Might be a good first lead except that both pitches are on the longer side. Looks like there's a WI3/WI4 variation for the 2nd pitch -- exit to the climber's right up the headwall instead of following the gully which angles left.