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Routes in Chapel Pond

Type: Mixed, 60 ft
FA: Mar 6, 2016, Jim Lawyer, Chris Beauchamp
Page Views: 223 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Jan 25, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Excellent dry tooling. Considerably easier when the rock is visible (i.e., not covered by snow).

Go up the right-leaning crack to a ledge with a small tree stump. (This start was how Reunion was first climbed; Reunion is now commonly started on the right side of the square cave.) From the ledge, continue up a crack, (V1) then traverse left 8' to where a seam breaks through a wide overlap. Go up this seam to a ledge with a fixed anchor. If there's ice above, you can continue another 30' up to the trees; otherwise lower from the anchor.

V1: Instead of traversing left 8', it is also possible to continue straight up the crack and right-facing corner to meet the ice, then up to the top. This has been led at M6 NEI4.

Location

12' left of the Reunion cave (the large, square cave at the base of the cliff) at a right-leaning crack-seam.

Protection

Nuts and cams to #1 Camalot.

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