Type: Ice, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,844 total · 45/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 1, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

24 Opinions

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Possibly the best route of this grade anywhere? The grade sounds kind of low but you are missing out on a great experience if you don't do it!

Just start climbing anywhere on this immense flow. Starting on the left seems best and don't worry if its thin down low, it gets thicker. The guide book warns of water pressure under the ice having blown out chunks towards the top- we didn't experience that but it would be crazy!

Walk off climbers left (one rap possible) or climbers right over buttress to a series of rappels (double rope then single rope) down to gully - this is possibly best if you are worried about snow conditions but then you probably shouldn't be climbing this slab then anyway...


Obvious monsterous slab of ice on left before Chapel Pond when approaching from East.


Steady nerve down low, screws up high.


Blastout potential is real. I've never had it happen, but a climbing associate of mine once did while free soloing the route. Hanging by one tool, feet and body jerking over newly-exposed rock, he managed to work over to ice on the side and escape death.
Note that while this is a wonderful climb, it is also one of the most common accident sites in the Adks. The low angle forces front-pointers to lean forward, reducing crampon security. French technique helps avoid this tendency. The slab's ice is often a composite of brittle, wind-chilled topcoat with water-warmed ice underneath. Don't let the caveats deter you, but don't be overly complacent either: place some "what-if" screws as you go. Dec 9, 2009
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NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Auto-X Fil   NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Probably the longest real climb in the Adirondacks. Great view of the valley and Giant, and loads of calf-burning front-pointing for most of the climb. Really fun, and a great place to work on dialing your systems, since the climbing is fast and easy.

It can be thin in places, so bring shorties. May 25, 2011