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Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - Summer Rock Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Diamond Area", The T 
American Beauty T 
Armadillo, The T 
Baron's Direct  T 
Flatiron T 
Memorial Buttress T 
Pamola 5.0 T 
Pamola IV Ridge T 
Radio Nowhere T 
Wind in the Willows, The T 
Wrong Chimney, The T 

American Beauty 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ben Townsend, Dorcas Miller
Page Views: 955
Submitted By: Ben Townsend on Jun 28, 2016

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Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit

Description 

1. Start at the base of the big corner and climb finger and hand cracks on the right wall to a small overhang. Belay on a sloping stance just above. 5.7-, 120'.

2. Continue up the corner a short way to an obvious rightward finger traverse into a clean, vertical crack. Follow this (about 80' of 4-5" crack) to a belay alcove. 5.7, 130'.

3. Climb the broken ridge, mostly easy but with a couple of short 5.7 sections, until it's obvious to unrope and scramble up to the Knife Edge. 5.7-, 150'.

Location 

Just left of the upper pitches of the Cilley-Barber is a clean right-facing corner system. Approach as for the left side of the Armadillo, then traverse easily left on the bushy ledge to a slightly nervy step across the Cilley-Barber; the start of the route is just beyond. Hike off.

Protection 

Standard rack, plus extra 4-5" gear for the second pitch.


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