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Routes in The Witch
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Airy Interlude T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ankles Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Brute Force T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Entity, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Gorilla Warfare T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Green Tide T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Iceberg T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Igor Unchained T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Innersanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nautilus, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Pegleg T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Phosphorescent Flow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Pit & The Pendulum, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pizzazz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pulp Friction T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Shazam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spook Book T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Terrorvision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Wicked West of the Witch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Witch Doctor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | P. & S. Clark (July, 1977) FFA: Yaniro (1981) |
| Page Views: | 3,236 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | D F on Oct 22, 2008 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
As Alex describes for Ankles Away, the first 50 feet to a bolted belay stance is a little cruxy. However, if you arrive at the bolted ledge and are still psyched to continue leading the route as one pitch then your are probably ready for the climbing above.
This golden corner of a route is an awesome adventure for solid 5.11+/5.12 leaders. I don't think it gets climbed much, as it was gritty and lichenous with cobwebs filling the thin crack in places when I did it on 10/19/08.
The crux is sustained and begins just off the ledge. Pro is limited and takes a cool head to place, but when you get it it's good. Falling 15 or 20 feet onto the ledge seemed to be a real possibility. Patience and endurance are the primary keys to safety on this one, I think.
I don't want to spoil the rest with detailed beta, as this one's value, for the time being, resides so much in its mystique, providing a reasonably safe head game at its finest. All I'll add is that, like Ankles Away, this route stays interesting all the way to the top.
This golden corner of a route is an awesome adventure for solid 5.11+/5.12 leaders. I don't think it gets climbed much, as it was gritty and lichenous with cobwebs filling the thin crack in places when I did it on 10/19/08.
The crux is sustained and begins just off the ledge. Pro is limited and takes a cool head to place, but when you get it it's good. Falling 15 or 20 feet onto the ledge seemed to be a real possibility. Patience and endurance are the primary keys to safety on this one, I think.
I don't want to spoil the rest with detailed beta, as this one's value, for the time being, resides so much in its mystique, providing a reasonably safe head game at its finest. All I'll add is that, like Ankles Away, this route stays interesting all the way to the top.
Protection
About 2 sets of med/lg brass nuts; medium Stoppers; 2 Metolius 00 (silver) cams; 3-4 Metolius 0 (purple); doubles of cams up to Metolius 3 (orange); one .75 and/or #1 (green/red) Camalot could also be useful as a directional on top.
For doing this in one pitch, a 60-meter rope might work if you go left at the top of the corner, avoiding the easy topout up and right and the subsequent rappel. Might as well take a 70, though, since that's the handy length for the area anyway.
For doing this in one pitch, a 60-meter rope might work if you go left at the top of the corner, avoiding the easy topout up and right and the subsequent rappel. Might as well take a 70, though, since that's the handy length for the area anyway.
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